Abercrombie and Fitch: Jeans, Knits and Coats From an Old Outfitter With a New Wardrobe

Abercrombie and Fitch: Jeans, Knits and Coats From an Old Outfitter With a New Wardrobe

Abercrombie and Fitch began as a Manhattan outfitter for campers and hunters, and this edit sorts its jeans, sweaters, coats and dresses by how they wear. I say when I would reach for each one and what to check in the fitting room.

Abercrombie and Fitch started in 1892 in Manhattan as an outfitter for campers, hunters and fishermen. Encyclopedia.com says David Abercrombie was a former miner and trapper who owned a camping-equipment factory and shop, and that Ezra Fitch was one of his customers, an outdoorsman and an attorney. The two disagreed about where the company should go, and Abercrombie left in 1907. By 1910 the store was selling women's clothing and had become the first in New York to supply clothing to women as well as men. I love that. A tent shop ended up dressing us too.

That outdoor streak is still the best way to read Abercrombie and Fitch today. The brand talks a lot about fabric and fit, and nearly every item in this edit comes with a plain description of the denim or knit it is made from. I like that it tells you what a jean is made of before it tells you how it should make you feel.

Start with the denim. The High Rise Barrel Jean in faded medium wash is the one I would reach for first, with a tee and loafers. The High Rise Wide Leg Jean in dark wash is inky and clean at the hem, so it dresses up easily. The High Rise 90s Straight Jean in medium wash is the classic cut, and the Low Rise Ultra Loose Jean in brown has a vintage-style fade that works with a plain white shirt. If you want something softer than blue, the barrel jean in ecru is lovely with a navy sweater.

Fit tip: sit down in the jeans before you decide. A high rise should feel relaxed at the waist, and a no-stretch pair should still let you bend your knees.

Collage of barrel, wide-leg and straight jeans, cable and striped sweaters and polos, and trench coats, jackets and knit dresses, and a mood photo of light wash wide jeans with a black cardigan

Knitwear, neckline by neckline

Knitwear is where I check the neckline first. A crew, a funnel and a polo collar each frame your face differently, so hold the sweater up before you commit. The Wool-Blend Roll Neck Crew Sweater in navy has a cream and light blue Fair Isle yoke, and it is cropped, so it sits well over a high-rise jean.

The Cable Half-Zip Sweater in cream is the cozy one, and I would wear it with the dark wash wide-leg jean on a gray morning. The Wool-Blend Easy Funnel Neck Sweater has tan, cream and yellow stripes, which makes a plain pair of trousers look planned. The Easy Jacquard Funnel Neck Sweater in light blue is quieter, with texture doing the work.

For something sharper, the Airspun Cotton-Blend Collared Sweater in red is relaxed and ribbed, and I would put it under a camel coat. The Cotton-Cashmere Sweater Polo in cream and black stripe has a contrast collar and a slim fit, so it looks neat with a pencil skirt. The Merino Wool-Blend Cable Short Sleeve Polo in black is body-skimming, with a four-button placket.

In the fitting room, pull the cuff down over your wrist and see if the rib springs back. What I would skip: a chunky cable like the light blue Textural Stitch Cable Crew Sweater if you plan to wear a fitted jacket over it, because the sleeves will bunch.

Coats, jackets and dresses by test

Outerwear wants a quick test with your arms: reach forward as if you are hailing a cab and see if the shoulders pull. If they stay put, the coat is right. The Carrie Wool-Blend Trench Coat in oatmeal is double-breasted with a tie belt, and I would wear it over the navy cable mini dress or a plain knit and jeans.

The 100% Wool Mid-Length Coat in camel has a classic lapel and a full lining with an interior chest pocket, which is a small detail I always appreciate. The West Village Wool-Blend Bomber Jacket in black is modeled on vintage styles, and it sits on the hips with a zip front and elastic hem. The Wool-Blend Barn Jacket in brown plaid has a corduroy-style collar, so I would pair it with straight jeans and boots. The Slim Zip Vegan Leather Jacket in brown has burnished panels and a fold-down collar for a short, sharp line.

Then the dresses. The Madeline Cable Mini Sweater Dress in navy is comfortable and easy with tights. The Dylan midi in chocolate brown has a scoop back, three-quarter sleeves and a pleated skirt, and the rose cotton Dylan midi has a corset-style bodice with wide straps. I would wear it with a cardigan over my shoulders. What I would skip: the cap-sleeve midi under a bulky coat, since it will crowd the straps.

How I would build the wardrobe

I would begin with the jeans, because they set the shape of everything else. Pick one pair, try it with a sweater from the second group, and see if the outfit works before you add a coat.

Then I would choose one knit I will wear weekly, and one layer for the cold. If a piece does not go with at least three things I already own, I leave it.

The company that once outfitted trips into the wilderness is now asking what you will wear to get through a Tuesday. I think the answer starts with a good pair of jeans. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Cotton On and Denim Beyond Jeans.