Mark Badgley and James Mischka met at Parsons School of Design in New York and started their label in 1988. Before that, Mark had designed for Donna Karan and James had designed menswear for WilliWear, so they came to evening clothes with real workroom training. In 1989 they won the Mouton-Cadet Young Designer Award from the Fashion Institute of Technology, and in 1996 Winona Ryder wore their blush lace gown to the Oscars. The look they settled on is simple, streamlined and elegant, with a nod to classic Hollywood, and the line they are known for is that one zip and you are glamorous. Footwear came in 1999, which makes the shoes here a long chapter of the story. The Remi sandal arrives with a crystal embellished ruffle bow, and the Galia has a square toe and a jewel ornament. The Cher is the one I keep coming back to, as a crystal buckle pump and as a satin stiletto with a jewel brooch. The Yuan and Yulianna slingbacks are the quieter pairs, and the Yordan 85MM pump comes in satin with mesh or suede with mesh. Let a jeweled toe sit under a gown with no beading of its own, like the plain ones in this guide to heels.

Escada acquired the label in 1992, and bridal followed in 1996, so long gowns have been part of the house from early on. The Pleat Ruffle Strapless Gown and the Ruffle Pleated Chiffon Strapless Gown are the romantic ones, while the Strapless Bow-Front Sequin Gown and the A-Line Sequin Tweed & Mikado Gown carry more weight. The Odessa crepe column gown with a feather cuff is the most streamlined of them, and the Floral Embellished Velvet Evening Gown is the one for a winter dinner. For a shorter night, the Belle by Badgley Mischka Kelsey one shoulder midi and the Kristina velvet burnout fit and flare are both easy to wear. Picture her stepping out of a car at a black tie dinner in the Cape Shoulder Gown, with nothing in her hands but a small clutch. What I would skip is the Loop Cape cocktail dress or any cape piece for a crowded dance floor, since the fabric wants room to move. If the invitation says black tie, this wedding guest gown guide explains what the dress code means, and cocktail dresses for evenings that start at six covers the shorter lengths.

The smaller pieces are where a Badgley Mischka evening gets its last details. The Payette Kit sequin envelope clutch, the Fern mixed crystal minaudiere and the crystal feather handbag are all made to hold a phone, a lipstick and little else. The belted pearly embellished jacket and the Belle by Badgley Mischka x Bracie Aston Carol suede jacket give a sleeveless dress somewhere to go when the temperature drops. The floral print georgette palazzo pants are a good way into the label if a gown feels like too much. Three more dresses sit here as well: the embroidered feather hem cocktail dress, the pleated A-line velvet gown and the sleeveless mockneck Presley dress. The Cher III satin and lace stiletto and the Eliana 125MM crystal pump finish the group for anyone who wants height, and pearl, crystal and satin pumps are worth a look for more ideas.

I would build an evening around one gown and let everything else stay quiet: a satin Cher pump, the Fern minaudiere and nothing on the neck. In 2017 Mark and James bought the label back from Iconix, together with Titan Industries, and the clothes still follow the idea they started with in 1988. If you like the idea of a small black bag and a long dress, a pair of silver heels can change the whole mood.

If you want to keep going, Givenchy Bags and Dresses and Halston Gowns and Coats pair well with this edit.