Black Jumpsuit: The Halston Idea for Dancing and Dinner

Black Jumpsuit: The Halston Idea for Dancing and Dinner

A black jumpsuit has been a night-out answer since at least 1976, when Halston cut a black silk jersey version for the Studio 54 dance floor. The Museum at FIT holds one, with cutaway sides made for disco. Here is how to choose a black jumpsuit that works as a one-piece outfit from desk to dinner.

A dance floor invention

The Museum at FIT holds a black silk jersey jumpsuit by Halston from around 1976, a gift of Ethel Scull. FIT says the body-revealing cutaway sides were designed for the dance floor at Studio 54 and other 1970s discos, and it names Ethel Scull, Liza Minnelli and Bianca Jagger among the clients for whom Halston made slinky designs. That is the black jumpsuit at its best: a single piece of clothing that treats getting dressed as one decision instead of two.

Black Jumpsuit styled editorial photo 1

Fit starts at the torso

A jumpsuit lives or dies at the torso. If it is too short, you will feel it every time you sit. Check that the rise is comfortable, that the waist lands where your waist is and that the straps or sleeves stay put. A stretch crepe, a matte jersey or a cotton twill drapes best. Wide legs hide a long stride and tapered legs show off a good shoe.

Black Jumpsuit styled editorial photo 2

Dressing it for the hour

For work, choose long sleeves or add a blazer and pointed flats. For dinner, go for a halter or a deep V and an earring that moves. In our fashion dreams she steps off a late train in a black wide-leg jumpsuit and a gold cuff, and walks straight into a party. A belt changes the shape in a second, and a long coat finishes it.

Black Jumpsuit styled editorial photo 3

Practical things worth checking

The bathroom question is real. Look for a jumpsuit with a side zip or a back zip that you can reach alone, and try sitting, bending and reaching in the fitting room. Black fabric shows lint, so a roller in the bag helps. If you are between sizes, choose the bigger one and take the waist in.

What I would skip

I would skip a thin jersey that clings at the crotch and a jumpsuit with a fussy front closure. A jumpsuit should feel easy, or it has missed the point.