Brown flats read warmer than black, and they sit more naturally with denim, cream and camel. The newest versions have a gathered toe, a snake texture or a shearling lining. Proenza Schouler's paneled Glove flats, Gabriela Hearst's plush Emperor flats, Staud's gathered Rue flats and Ancient Greek Sandals' shearling-trimmed suede Aeropi flats show the range.

White jeans and a bomber is a classic weekend outfit, and brown flats make it look considered. Agolde's white 80's tapered jeans and The Frankie Shop's navy satin Storm bomber work with Loeffler Randall's woven leather Leonie flats, and Khaite's snake-effect Lori bag repeats the texture.

Flats keep a floral dress from looking too dressy. Dôen's off-white floral Rhodia dress and Stouls's beige suede Astrid cardigan make a soft base for Aeyde's chocolate Ellie flats, and Toteme's snake-effect Roam tote adds a harder edge.

Brown flats make wide trousers look deliberate rather than borrowed. Loewe's dark gray tiered wool trousers and Max Mara's light gray checked Nasello blazer are all business, while Tod's tan suede flats and Call It By Your Name's bandana-print cotton tote relax the look.

The simplest version might be the most useful. Frame's mid-wash Saturday jeans and Anine Bing's cream Moni cardigan meet MM6 Maison Margiela's dark brown calf hair ballet flats, and Acne Studios' brown reversible belt pulls it together.

Brown flats are the kind of shoe that ends up worn more than anything else in the closet, because they sit with almost every colour. If you take one thing away, let it be that a darker chocolate brown is more versatile than tan, since it works with navy and black as well as with cream. Texture is where you can have some fun: snake, calf hair and suede all look richer in brown. We would skip very pale or rounded styles that start to look like slippers after a few weeks. A pointed or almond toe keeps them sharp with tailoring and still comfortable with jeans.