A sandal earns its place when the straps stay put as I walk, not just when I stand still. That is the first test for a wedding shoe, because a loose ankle strap gets old before the speeches do. Tory Burch Twisted Heel Sandals in Bark Brown keep the detail at the upper; AQUA Diana Braided Leather Mid Heel Sandals in Chocolate carry texture across the foot instead.

For a clearer ankle line, I would try Jeffrey Campbell Carnelian Suede Ankle Strap Sandals in Espresso Suede with a long skirt or a cropped trouser. rag & bone Gigi Block Heel Sandals in Umber Suede have a block heel that I would put with a full-length trouser, while Veronica Beard Lanaya Suede Ankle-Wrap Sandal in Chestnut asks for a hem that lets the wrap show. The Veronica Beard Via Suede Mid-Heel Sandal in Chestnut feels like the calmer cousin.

The Badgley Mischka Romina II Embellished Leather Platform Sandals in Dark Brown Velvet are a whole evening in one shoe, so I would keep the rest spare. Jeffrey Campbell Dress Sandals in Brown Patent Combo are the sharper option, and they need a plainer dress to let the finish read. What I would skip: wearing a platform pair to a day with a lot of stairs. Try each strap with the outfit's real hem, then walk, turn and pause; the shoe should stay where you set it.

For a backless shoe, I look at the vamp before anything else: it should hold the foot without asking my toes to grip. Jeffrey Campbell Agent High Heel Slide Sandals in Coffee have a clean, open shape, while the Ce-Soire Sandals in Coffee Patent bring a glossier finish. I would wear either with a long skirt that lets the shoe show when I move.

The STEVE MADDEN Kendrix Sandals in Brown Leather are the simple option for straight jeans and a soft shirt. Sam Edelman Jeanie Mule Sandals in Rich Chocolate feel lighter and more relaxed, an easy answer to a cropped trouser. Jeffrey Campbell Cocoa Mules in Brown Suede have a softer surface, so I would keep the rest of the outfit crisp rather than matching them to another fuzzy texture.

I would reach for Sam Edelman's Brandy Pointed Toe Mule in Cafe Noir when I want a backless shoe with a sharp line and a modest, walkable heel. Veronica Beard Tia Buckle Sandal in Espresso puts a clear detail on top; the Tia Raffia Sandal in Espresso shifts the texture without changing the basic idea. The Schutz Taylor Mules in toffee brown and Reformation Claudette Heeled Mules in espresso are the heeled mules I would add for a dress, while the Lemaire Glove Mules and Black Suede Studio Naomi Satin Mules in cacao suit a quieter evening. Before committing to a backless pair, I take a full stride and stop suddenly. If my foot slides forward or my toes clench, that shoe belongs on the shelf, however good it looks from the side.

The fitting-room mirror is useful, but the side view tells me more about a heel's proportions. SAINT LAURENT Babylone Mules in Aesthetic Brown have a sculptural feel, while Badgley Mischka Jayda Platform Pumps in Dark Brown put more visual weight under the foot. I would let either one be the point of a quiet outfit.

Stuart Weitzman Stuart Power 85 Pumps in Dark Brown are the clean pump in this group. Veronica Beard Lisa Western Mule in Brown Multi has a more relaxed character, and the Rochelle Cabochon Mule in Chestnut gives the upper a focal detail. The Rochelle Snake-Embossed Mule in Espresso has more texture, so I would pair it with smooth trousers or a plain dress rather than pile on another print.

REISS Lucia Chain Detail Patent Leather Slingback Pumps in Camel bring a chain accent and a lighter brown tone; I would use the chain as the only jewelry note. Tory Burch Double T Buckle Suede Kitten Heel Pumps in Dark Cocoa are a neat choice when I want a lower line with a visible buckle. Try these with the actual hem you plan to wear, then look from the side and back. Further down, the Ferragamo Witty mule and Dafne slingback, Christopher Esber's Giro and Alexandre Birman's Amy platform sandal are the pairs I would save for a night out. A shoe can be beautiful in a still pose and awkward once the outfit starts moving.

I would decide on the outfit first, then choose the shoe's job. For a long day with a desk and a dinner after, I would start with a pump or a stable block heel. For a short evening, I would let the patent, velvet or chain detail do the talking.

Then I would bring the real trouser or skirt hem into the fitting room and walk more than a few careful steps. Check where the strap lands, whether a mule holds the foot, and whether the heel still feels like you when you turn around. I like the V&A's reminder that shoe shapes keep changing. My own test is simpler: I should be able to picture wearing these again next week. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together YSL Heels Dupe and Louboutin Heels.