Craftsmanship at Brunello Cucinelli is rarely used to show off, and this season is the clearest proof. The techniques here could pass as feats of engineering, yet they came across as second nature. Raffia turned into Viennese canework, crochet took on a sculptural shape, mesh and honeycomb textures played with transparency, and denim got finish worthy of couture.

Nothing said "Look what we can do." I think that restraint is the most confident thing a house can do.

A slim-fit blazer turned the octagonal pattern of Vienna straw, normally found on furniture, into raffia, so let us begin with the jackets and blazers that carry that idea.

The hand-crocheted knitwear used the same octagonal motif in an unusually soft, matte raffia. Elsewhere a cloudlike dandelion motif looked blown into shape by a breeze, and a wool jumper with a botanical lace pattern made elaborate handwork feel light. Crochet, dimensional embroidery and special shaping gave familiar stitches new volume.

The workmanship was formidable and the attitude was not, which is exactly how I like my clothes. Denim appeared in about one in five looks, and it was the best proof that even casual fabric can get the careful treatment.

For trousers, I would pick the suede wide-leg pants or the cotton canvas barrel-leg pants, both of which suit the loose, unfussy attitude on the runway.

This is where the collection won me over. The intricate pieces landed next to menswear shirts, cropped cargos, long skirts and short shorts. Crochet softness crept into blazers and blousons, and utility shapes softened with fluid fabrics and feminine details.

Nothing seemed to need a special occasion or a how-to-wear-it guide. A sweater was knotted on in only a handful of looks, but it fits that casual spirit. Hats appeared in more than a third of the looks, and glasses or sunglasses in about two in five, a big share that kept the mood relaxed.

At the feet, I would go with suede ballet flats or the leather slingbacks, shoes that look polished but do not make a fuss.

Materials enjoyed the same freedom of mixing. Raffia sat beside organza, sailor stripes caught a little gold, and crisp cottons shared space with airy handmade textures. Shirts took cues from bombers and trenches, and outerwear in organza, striped poplin and denim felt summery.

Bags were in nearly half of the looks, and in a show about quiet craft, that is the accessory that does its work without announcing it.

The thing I remember most is the gap between how hard these clothes are to make and how easy they look. More handwork somehow means a more natural result, and I would happily wear any of it.