Buccellati, From Macri to Hawaii: Where to Start

Buccellati opened its first shop in Milan in 1919, when Mario Buccellati took over the Beltrami and Besnati business. The house's history traces his effort to translate lace weaving into gold, using lace, tulle and honeycombing, and I keep that craftsmanship in mind as I sort these pieces by line.

 

Each grid below is one Buccellati collection, so you can go straight to the line you care about. I start with Macri and Macri Classica, move through Ramage, Hawaii, Opera and Tulle, then finish with Étoilée and Rombi.

The house's history says Gianmaria dedicated La Macri to his daughter Maria Cristina and describes rigato as central to the line. I picked four Macri Eternelle rings, with diamonds, in yellow and white gold, white and yellow gold, pink and white gold, and white gold.

 

A practical tip: compare the gold combinations in the product images and choose the one you already reach for most. I would skip buying two versions at once and start with the Macri ring that fits your usual jewelry wardrobe. I also keep the published Buccellati Jewelry story beside this collection guide for a second read.

Macri Classica is the line I would compare across different forms. I picked a pair of hoop earrings, an Eternelle ring, a Rigato bracelet with diamonds and a yellow gold band bracelet.

 

A practical tip: begin with the category you already wear most, then compare the two bracelets on your wrist or the ring in your usual size. I would skip buying the full set at once, since one considered piece gives the worked gold more room.

Ramage gives me an easy comparison across the wrist, ear, neck and hand. I picked a bangle with black rhodium finish and diamonds, set earrings, a white gold pendant with leaf modeled borders and a ruby ring with diamonds.

 

A practical tip: the pendant is a restrained way into the line, while the bangle needs a careful size check. I would skip wearing all four forms together and start with the silhouette that matches your usual jewelry.

Buccellati describes Hawaii as small circles of hand twisted wire that intertwine, and says Andrea Buccellati expanded the collection in the 1990s. I picked eight pieces: three necklaces, three earring styles and two bracelets, including the necklace with hand twisted threads and the pink gold bracelet with tiny circles.

 

A practical tip: start with one scale, a bracelet for a smaller accent or a necklace if you want the repeated circles to read at a distance. I would skip stacking several larger pieces before seeing how they sit together.

Buccellati says its Opera collection launched in 2015 with a floral motif inspired by the Maison's logo and Renaissance architecture. I picked four pieces: an Eternelle ring, a yellow and white gold pendant and two diamond bracelets, one in mixed gold and one in white gold.

 

A practical tip: the pendant brings the motif near the face, while a single bracelet makes a simpler first step. I would skip pairing both bracelets with the pendant at once, since their details already stand out on their own.

The house's history describes tulle among the lace techniques Mario Buccellati translated onto gold. I picked eight Tulle pieces: one pair of hoop earrings, three rings, two pendants and two bracelets, including the Mini Tulle designs.

 

A practical tip: decide between a ring, pendant or bracelet first, then compare the width and scale in the product images. I would skip adding several openwork pieces at once if you want the surface to remain easy to see.

The Buccellati history page dates Étoilée to 1991 and describes four hand wrought gold chains with diamond encrusted lilies. I picked eight pieces from the line: two bracelets, three Eternelle rings, a necklace and two pairs of drop earrings, with colored gems in several styles.

 

A practical tip: choose one color story first, either the blue and green pieces or the warm red stones, and keep the rest as alternatives. I would skip buying two colored pieces before deciding which palette you want to repeat.

Rombi reads as a geometric line in the product images. I picked eight pieces: four rings, three earring styles and a bracelet, with ruby and emerald rings as the most colorful alternatives.

 

A practical tip: one pair of earrings or one ring is enough to start if you want the pattern to stay clear. I would skip wearing the colored rings, bracelet and earrings together before comparing their scale in person.

I would start with the Hawaii bracelet if I wanted a repeated circle motif, or with the Macri Eternelle ring if a ring is the form I reach for most. Then I would compare Tulle for lace references and Étoilée for color. For a gift, I would choose earrings or a pendant rather than a ring, since the recipient's size becomes one less decision.

 

I would keep jewelry away from hard knocks and follow Buccellati's current care guidance for cleaning and storage. For a second read, I would save the published Buccellati Jewelry story with this collection guide.