Cargo Pants: Parachute, Denim and Satin Pairs With a Battledress Past

Cargo Pants: Parachute, Denim and Satin Pairs With a Battledress Past

Cargo pants started in British battle dress in 1938, and this edit sorts parachute, denim, twill and satin pairs by how they wear. I say when I would reach for each one and what to check in the fitting room.

Battle dress was first worn by members of the British Armed Forces in 1938, and the large pockets we now call cargo were originally designed to hold field dressings, maps and other items. The idea was copied for American paratroopers, who needed room for K rations and extra ammunition. I love that. A pocket made for a map now holds your keys, a lip balm and a folded receipt.

 

That practical streak is why I keep coming back to cargo pants. They are cut loose, they bend at the knee and hip, and the pockets do real work. Today the idea shows up in ripstop, twill, denim and satin, and the only real decision is how much volume you want and in which fabric.

 

I would start with the parachute shapes, because they are the most playful. The Manière De Voir Rosa in cream ripstop has rope ties at the hem for a balloon fit, and I would wear it with a fitted white tank and flat sneakers. The EDIKTED Paskal in red and the JADED LONDON cotton pair in coral red are the loud ones, so keep the top plain. The Steve Madden Jacey in burgundy and the Reformation Sawyer in raspberry red both cinch at the cuff, and they look best with a slim knit tucked in.

 

For quieter days, the Free People Onset in black sand has a tapered balloon leg and an ankle cinch. The BDG Sunridge in dark green is cotton twill with a drop crotch, and the Grey Lab pair in charcoal sits low with a pleated toggle waist. One tip: pull the drawstring hems up and down in the mirror, because the length changes the whole shape.

Collage of red and cream parachute pants, denim and twill cargo jeans, and satin wide-leg cargo trousers, and a mood photo of khaki cargo pants with a white tee

Parachute and nylon cargo pants

Denim and twill, pocket by pocket

Fabric weight decides whether a pocket looks sharp or sags. Put your hand flat on the flap in the fitting room and see if it lies down or bulges. Denim and twill hold their shape better than most, which is why this is the part of the edit I would wear to work.

 

The Free People Reef in black is a curved-leg twill with a drawstring-grommet waist, and it works with a tucked-in tee and loafers. The Free People Brentwood in Atlantic is indigo denim with a textured weave and a barrel leg, a little looser and a little cooler. The Whistles wide-leg jeans in dark denim keep the pocket detail up on the thigh, so I would pair them with a fine knit and a pointed flat.

 

If you want a lighter hand, the La Ligne Clark in tan is 100% cotton twill with a button closure and a zip fly. The Citizens of Humanity Marcelle in stone has darted knees and a cropped hem that shows off a boot. The AMO Colette in olive has flap pockets and a lightly distressed finish, and I would wear it with a white tee and a belt. The Wash Lab Denim pair in faded black and the Menina Step in light wash are the multi-flap, stacked-pocket versions.

 

What I would skip: stacked multi-flap pockets on a day you plan to carry a crossbody bag, because the strap fights the flaps all day.

Denim and twill cargo pants

Satin and tailored, after dark

A satin cargo needs one matte thing next to it. That is the whole trick here, and it is why I reach for a plain cotton tee or a ribbed knit before anything shiny. Hold the fabric up to a window, too, since satin shows every pull at the seat.

 

The Vince high-waist utility pants in Cypress and the AGOLDE Ambika sateen pair in caramel brown are the grown-up ones, warm earthy colors with big side pockets. The Ramy Brook Hannah in oasis blue is made from recycled-fiber satin and has a luminous sheen, so I would keep everything else neutral. The HOUSE OF CB Daria in a pale blush is relaxed and military-inspired, and I can see it with a gray sweatshirt and white sneakers.

 

The Zara satin balloon trousers in white have front pleats and patch leg pockets, and they want a tucked-in black tank. For tailoring, the Manière De Voir Danielle in chocolate brown has pleats and cuffed hems, and the Argent trousers in Midnight hide their pockets almost completely. The TOCCIN James in Jet has drawcord hems and flap thigh pockets, a good black pair for sneakers or boots.

 

Before you commit, sit down in them and check the rise and the hem length with the shoes you plan to wear.

Satin, wide-leg and tailored cargo pants

Choosing a pair, in order

I would begin with the shape I actually wear most, trousers or jeans, and decide whether the pockets should shout or whisper. Then I would pick the fabric: ripstop for weekends, twill for work, satin for dinner.

 

Next, I would check the waist, the hem and the pocket flaps in the mirror, and put my hand in each pocket once. If a flap pops open or a hip looks lumpy, I would put that pair back.

 

Pockets began as a place for a soldier's maps and dressings, and that is a good thing to remember when you hold a pair up. If it is not useful, it is just costume. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together The Return of Real Denim and How Denim Should Fit At The Waist.