Diaper Bag: How a Baby Essential Became a Designer Accessory

In 1977 a New York court sat down to decide a case about baby bags. Gucci had sued Macy's over bags with green and red bands and the wording "Gucchi Goo", and the court found that Macy's had infringed Gucci's trademark. I love that. Nearly fifty years ago, a carryall for wipes and spare onesies was already worth a lawyer's afternoon.

The bag has had a quiet glow-up since. For a long while it was a style afterthought, pale prints and cartoon animals. Then Kate Spade, Coach and Ralph Lauren put out their own versions, and plain designs without licensed characters started to read as proper handbags. Dads joined in, and the darker, leaner backpack arrived. That is the diaper bag I would shop for now: one that looks like it belongs to you.

Backpacks first, since October means holiday travel, long days out and two hands that need to be free. I would start with the Dagne Dover Indi in camel, small, which has two key leashes, clips to a stroller and holds pouches for wipes, toys and snacks. The large Indi in dark moss is the one for twins, trips and a full change of clothes. The CALPAK Mini in hazelnut keeps insulated bottle pockets in a compact flap-top shape, while the black CALPAK adds a padded laptop sleeve for the parent who is also working. For something softer, the Skip Hop Forma in sage has chevron quilting and a tassel zip pull. The Petunia Pickle Bottom Boxy in ebony closes with a magnet, so you can get in with one hand.

My tip: put the bag on, load it with a water bottle, and see if it still sits flat on your back.

These bags are generally small enough to fit on or under a stroller, and a tote leans on that. It is the shape I would pick for short days, school runs and the car.

The Dagne Dover Wade in camel or dark moss is the closest thing to a normal work tote, with two top handles and a front zip pocket, and the large size suits newborn days. The CALPAK tote in hazelnut is softer, with padded handles, a large front pocket and a luggage sleeve for airport mornings. For something quilted, the MZ Wallace Metro in black has tall handles and big front pockets, and the 7AM Enfant Capri is the puffer-quilted compact one. Pehr's red gingham convertible cotton bag turns up the fun a notch, which suits a fall picnic. The Parker Baby Willow is the sleek black zip-top, with a detachable shoulder strap and stroller loops.

At the shop or in your hallway, lift the tote by one handle with a full load and look at the base. It should hold its shape and not sag. Zip the main opening too, because a top that closes keeps a spilled bottle contained.

What I would skip: a pale blush tote like the Huggies Evening Carry All if your daily route involves a muddy park. It is lovely for an evening out, so keep it for those.

Wikipedia notes that plain designs can be associated with celebrity mothers, and the crossbody is the version I picture those parents wearing: hands free, no shoulder dig.

The CALPAK crossbody in hazelnut is a hobo shape with a long strap and zip side pockets. Its stroller caddy sibling in oatmeal comes with stroller straps, so it clips on and then converts to a crossbody once you park. The Deux par Deux sling in cream is sherpa-textured and unisex, a good fit for a cold walk. For black options, the Citymouse half-moon, the Portier belt bag with three carry modes (shoulder, crossbody and pram caddy) and the Cloud Island crescent in recycled nylon all stay out of the way. Itzy Ritzy's coffee and cream fanny pack has gold zips, and the Huggies cross body in cognac leather has a front zip pocket.

Buying test: stand in front of a mirror, strap it across your body and zip every pocket. If the bag swings forward when you bend to the stroller, shorten the strap or move to the belt version. Look at the zips too, since you will use them with one hand.

What I would skip: a small belt bag as your only bag on a long day. Use it as the grab piece for a quick trip, and leave the full kit in the car.

Designers followed the parents. Wikipedia dates the arrival of premium baby bag designs from Kate Spade, Coach and Ralph Lauren to 2005, and this is the shelf where that history still lives.

The Tory Burch Virginia in black is nylon that is made to be easy to clean, with side pockets, top handles and a logo plate. The Kate Spade Carter in wine is a slouchy large nylon shoulder bag with side pockets and a metal plaque. Burberry gives you two takes: the Belfast in house check quilted calf leather, duffel-style with two short handles, and the check baby changing backpack in archive beige. The Prada Re-Nylon in tan has a drawstring side and the triangle logo. Moncler's Mommy bag in black adds leather trim and a drawstring toggle. For a vegan-leather alternative, the Charlie Lou Baby backpack in brown has two insulated bottle pockets, stroller straps and a changing mat, and the Nuna x BMW backpack is the black option.

Before you commit, open the bag and look at the lining and the pockets. A bag at this level should still be able to take a bottle, a pad and a change of clothes. Check the corners and trim where leather meets nylon.

What I would skip: leather and light check for the daily park bag, where juice and sand will find them. Save them for dinners and trips.

The changing pad is the quiet hero of any bag. One dad-focused brand, Dad Gear (it launched in 2005), built its backpack around 13 compartments, a washable changing pad and straps to attach to any stroller, which tells you what parents ask for.

Dagne Dover's Joey Changing Kit in camel or onyx is a waterproof, washable pad designed as an add-on to the Indi and Wade, folded closed with a buckle strap. The CALPAK organizer in hazelnut looks like a clutch, with a detachable pad, snap closures and a collapsible hanging hook. UPPAbaby's Carry All parent organizer straps to the stroller handlebar, and Bugaboo's gray quilted changing clutch has a wrist strap. Skip Hop's Pronto in sage is a fold-out station with a carry handle, and the Tiny Twinkle pad in sage checkers has a wipes pocket and is OEKO-TEX Standard 100. Mushie's baby blue caddy has removable dividers for the nursery shelf or the car.

Pack one out and open it flat on a table: can you reach the wipes with one hand, and does the pad wipe clean in one pass. Check that the straps or buckle close without fuss.

What I would skip: a second organizer when your bag already has dividers. One pad kit is the point, so choose the one that matches your bag.

Decide how you carry first: backpack for travel, tote for short days, crossbody when you want only the essentials. Then check the pockets, for an insulated bottle, a pad and stroller straps.

If you want the designer one, pick the nylon, which is easier to clean, and keep it for the days that matter. And add a pad kit, since that is what makes any bag work.

The 1977 case was about a pun on baby talk. These days I think the best bag is the one you can reach into with one hand, and the label comes second.