Hair Spray, Sorted by Hold, and Why the Crunchy Kind Is Over

Aerosol cans were developed during World War II for insecticides, and after the war the technology was repurposed for hair; Chase Products packaged the first hair spray in America in 1948. By 1964 it was the top-selling beauty product in the country, the invisible structure under every bouffant and beehive. Today the best formulas hold without the helmet. Oribe Canales, the Cuban-born stylist who did so much supermodel-era cover hair, co-founded Oribe in 2008, and Superfine is the light, touchable one I would use to tame flyaways. Living Proof came out of an MIT lab led by Dr. Robert Langer in 2005, and its Flex spray sets and finishes without stiffness. Bumble and bumble's Spray de Mode is made for styles with movement, and Verb's Ghost spray, from the brand that began in Austin barbershops, locks in heat-styled hair without crunch. Hold the can about ten inches away and mist, instead of soaking one spot. For a lived-in finish, spray your brush first and then run it over the top layer.

The flexible row also has JVN's Perfect Flexible Hold, Olaplex's Shape Set with frizz control, Curlsmith's Flexible Hold Flawless Finish for curls, and IGK's Good Behavior. I would pick based on how much my hair moves during the day, and keep the lightest one for second-day hair.

Some days call for a style that has to survive humidity or a long night. Kenra started in Indianapolis in 1929 with a single no-tweeze wax, and Volume Spray 25, launched in 1987, is the super-hold spray of this row. Color Wow's founder Gail Federici helped build Frizz Ease before starting her own company, and Texas Hold 'Em keeps big styles up even when it is humid. Moroccanoil's strong finish carries argan oil against frizz, and IGK, named for the initials of its four stylist founders, makes a strong spray the brand says locks a style in for 72 hours. Spray these at arm's length, then brush through lightly so the hold looks like hair, not shellac.

The row also holds dae's Sunsetter, Oribe's Superfine Strong Hold, Kenra's Ultra Freeze for firm hold, and UNITE's MAXCONTROL. If I only needed one for an updo, I would lean on the Ultra Freeze and keep the Oribe for days when I want hold that still moves.

Sisley, the family-owned French house Hubert and Isabelle d'Ornano founded in 1976 and named for the painter Alfred Sisley, makes an invisible spray with pro-vitamin B5 that holds without locking hair in place. Crown Affair began as a Google Doc of Dianna Cohen's routine, and its finishing spray adds polish without alcohol or aerosols. Moroccanoil's medium hold is the everyday version, and Kérastase's Laque Couture sets styles and adds UV protection. What I would skip is spraying damp hair. It clumps and goes sticky, so spray only when hair is dry and styled. If you do overdo it, a few passes with a dry brush breaks up the hold without washing. Past the finishing sprays, I also like Rahua's Defining Hair Spray, Oribe's Royal Blowout Heat Styling Spray for prep before the dryer, and CAIR's Detangling Spray for the morning knots.

Fine hair does best with flexible sprays. Thick or curly hair and updos need strong hold. If you live somewhere humid, pick a spray made for it. Brush out with a boar-bristle brush at night so the product does not build up, and wash it out before the next style. A clarifying wash once a week keeps buildup from dulling color. The masks, serums and treatments in the last grid are what I would pair with any of these sprays to keep hair soft between styles. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together LolaVie and L'Oréal Setting Spray and the Mists and Primers That Hold Makeup.