Dear Friends, in 1981 the designer Anne-Marie Beretta drew a coat for Max Mara with an oversized cut and kimono sleeves, in wool and cashmere, and numbered it 101801. Today the house calls it its most widely recognised garment, and the sleeves still turn up to fit your arm. One good coat can carry a season.

 

That is the lesson for how to dress for 50 degree weather (and there is certainly more to uncover). Fifty degrees is not winter. It is a morning that bites and an afternoon that does not, so you want one serious layer on top and thin, warm things underneath that you can shed. Wool is the quiet hero here: Woolmark notes that its fibre crimp traps pockets of still air, and that wool can absorb up to 35% of its weight before it feels wet. Below I will give you modern options for every layer, starting with the coat.

 

Picture her on a cold platform at 8am, hands in pockets, the collar up. In my fashion dreams the coat is the Helsa topcoat in dark brown, long and fitted with covered buttons, which is a Portuguese-made wool blend. The EAVES coat in light gray has padded shoulders and a midweight melton, so it works with a thin knit rather than a parka. The Favorite Daughter Metropolitan in camel is a wool blend with a little cashmere, and it grazes the floor. For the coldest of these days I would reach for the SRG Jolie, 90% wool and 10% cashmere in a heavyweight melton, with a belt that detaches.

 

If you want something shorter, the Alex Mill Sophia pea coat in heather gray has a mock neck and slant pockets. Check the label for the wool and cashmere share before you buy, and pinch the cloth: a good melton feels dense, not thin.

Cashmere is very fine, around 15 microns according to Brunello Cucinelli, and that fineness holds a little air against the skin. That is why a thin cashmere layer under a coat makes sense. The same house began in 1978 with the idea of adding color to women's cashmere knitwear, and I find that a useful nudge: you do not need only gray. I went deeper on a related idea in What to Wear in 60 Degree Weather: A Trench, a Fine Knit and One Layer to Spare.

 

For the base layer I would go for a turtleneck. The Vince slim turtleneck in pinewood and the CO fitted one in black are lightweight stretch knits that slide under a coat without bulk. The SIMKHAI Fenwick in chocolate and the Tanya Taylor Tipper in army green are both slim, and the green looks lovely under a camel coat. The PAIGE Jacie in heathered spruce has a ribbed trim that keeps the neck from sagging.

 

If you prefer a crew, the Jenni Kayne Marina in oat is relaxed with dropped shoulders, and the ANINE BING Lee is boxy in heather gray. The Guest in Residence shrunken crew in black is cropped, which suits high-waisted trousers.

 

Test it at the fitting room: pull the sleeve over your knuckles and see whether the cuff springs back. Then put your coat on over it and lift your arms.

 

What I would skip: a chunky turtleneck under a fitted coat, because the sleeves will bunch.

One goat yields only about 150 to 250 grams of cashmere undercoat a year, which explains a lot about how a sweater feels, but your lower half needs something sturdier. Wool trousers are the answer for a 50 degree day, since wool holds warmth even when the air is damp.

 

The Theory Classic Straight in charcoal melange has a brushed finish and a clean line, and it is 100% wool. The Citizens of Humanity Ines in gris is wide and pleated with a high waist. The Jil Sander pair in black flares a little over a boot. The Nili Lotan Shon in midnight is cropped with patch pockets, so I would wear it with an ankle boot and let the ankle show.

 

For jeans, go dark. The Citizens of Humanity Annina in inky rinse is a long, wide straight leg. The Veronica Beard Milla in indigo is a slim straight with a lightweight stretch denim. The Nili Lotan Celia has a gentle flare and pressed seams, and it is made in the USA. The rag & bone Harlow in dark rinse is 100% cotton in a slim straight cut.

 

Fitting test: sit down, and check that the waist does not gape and the hem hits the boot.

 

What I would skip: pale or distressed denim on a damp, windy day. It looks cold, and it feels cold.

Brands have origin stories that make you smile. rag & bone was founded in New York in 2002 and takes its name from the English rag and bone man, and its founder wanted the clothes made in U.S. factories. Its Newbury Chelsea is a sleek black leather boot with elastic sides, a stacked heel and an Ortholite insole.

 

Boots are where 50 degrees gets decided. Your feet are the first thing to feel the pavement, so I like a closed boot with a bit of lining or structure. For a knee boot, the Loeffler Randall Lillian is a dark brown suede flat with a square toe, and the Veronica Beard Lisa in hazelwood is camel suede with a kitten heel. The Dolce Vita Emilia in black leather has a low wedge and a cushioned footbed. The AEYDE Medea is black calfskin, made in Italy, with a block heel.

 

For an ankle boot, the STAUD Miles in espresso suede has a lug sole and is made in Portugal. The Loeffler Randall Siya is a low black suede with a side zip. The Dolce Vita Tarine is a black leather bootie with a square toe.

 

Check the shaft: sit down and bend your knee, because a tall boot should not dig behind it. Zip it up, then walk across the room.

 

What I would skip: suede on days of steady rain, unless you have a protector spray.

Acne Studios started in Stockholm in 1996, and the story goes that Jonny Johansson made 100 pairs of jeans with red stitching and gave them to friends and family. Its Canada scarf is the long and skinny black one, 100% wool with fringed ends, made in Italy, and a small pink label.

 

Accessories are what make a fifty degree outfit feel finished, and they are also the easiest to take off by noon. Start at the neck: the Howlin' King Jammy in chocolate is 100% lambswool, ribbed and made in the United Kingdom. The LISA YANG Chelsea in sand is 100% cashmere with dark oat ribbing at the edges, and it folds small in a bag.

 

On your head, a beret is the quiet option. The Frankie Shop Noxley comes in black and in burgundy, in pure wool with a rounded, soft crown. The Brunello Cucinelli beret in brown has a small stem and a soft crown, and it comes in S, M and L.

 

For hands, the rag & bone Joni gloves are black lambskin with a cashmere lining and elastic cuffs, and the Favorite Daughter City gloves have long ribbed knit cuffs that tuck into a coat sleeve.

 

Try the beret by pulling it low over one ear and check that it stays on in the wind.

 

What I would skip: a scarf thicker than your coat collar. It will push the lapels open.

So here is my order for a 50 degree morning. Start with the coat, because the Max Mara story is right: one well-cut coat in wool and cashmere carries the season. Add a thin turtleneck, wool trousers or dark jeans, and a boot with a bit of structure.

 

Then finish with a scarf and gloves that can go into a bag. A beret is optional, but I would pack one anyway, because a hat is the quickest way to feel put together when the wind picks up.

 

Fifty degrees will change by lunch, and you will be ready. With love, and warm hands,