The word lingerie came into English in 1835, borrowed from French, where it grew out of the Old French linge, meaning linen. Etymonline notes it began life as a polite way to say under-linen. I like knowing that, because it reminds me these pieces were always meant to sit quietly underneath something, and to be good enough that you are glad they are there. That is how I shop for lingerie now: as the first layer of an outfit, not a separate department.

 

The other useful bit of history is a short one. Mary Phelps Jacob was awarded a US patent for her Backless Brassiere on November 3, 1914, according to MIT's Lemelson Center. It was not the first bra patent ever, and the Lemelson Center points out that her version had no cups. So the bra has been an engineering problem for a long time, and it still is. Sass magazine makes the point I repeat to every friend: straps are not the main source of support, the band is. So in the fitting room, I check the band first. It should sit level around you and stay put when you lift your arms. Only then do I look at the straps.

 

With that in mind, here is how I would read the first group. Fleur du Mal is the label I would start with. Jennifer Zuccarini founded it in New York in 2012 after working at Kiki de Montparnasse and Victoria's Secret, and her pieces are made to be glimpsed. The Étoile Embroidery Balconette Bra in pink truffle has star-script embroidery, the Juliet Lace Demi Bra is the romantic one in scalloped lace and silk, the Bianca balconette in linen beige has small black bows, and the Le Stretch Lace Demi Bra in cocoa plum is the easiest everyday choice. Kiki de Montparnasse, which launched in New York in 2005, adds the Brienne molded demi in a sheer red.

 

Then come the pieces I would wear where someone can see a hint of them. The Dolce&Gabbana Lace-trimmed silk-blend satin bra in black and the Leopard print bra are the loudest here. The Fendi Logo triangle bralette and the Valentino Garavani VLogo lace bralette are in black too, and they look sharp under an open blazer. Khaite's Talita sheer lace bralette is the one for a loose white shirt left unbuttoned. Fleur Of England's Valentina Strap Balcony bra and Bluebella's Leonora Underwire Lace Bra are the softer, more romantic end of the group.

Bodysuits are the pieces I reach for when I want one clean line under a blazer, and they are the most outfit-like of anything here. The idea is simple: tuck in, button up a jacket, and no hem to adjust all day. Check the snaps at the bottom before you buy, and sit down in the fitting room to see how it behaves.

 

Zimmermann's Lace bodysuit comes in two colours here, and I would think of them as two different outfits: the darker one under a tailored blazer and wide trousers, the lighter one under a sheer shirt left open. Gucci's Lace cutout bodysuit in blue is the one that stands on its own, so I would keep everything else simple around it. The Dolce&Gabbana Lace-detail balconette bodysuit is more traditional, with a balconette shape that is easy to wear under a V-neck, and the Saint Laurent Lace-trimmed ribbed-knit silk bodysuit in black is the quietest of the lot, a ribbed knit with a lace trim that could pass for a fine top under a leather jacket.

 

Fleur du Mal has the most pieces in this group. The Seduce U-Plunge in black is the everyday layer, and the Charlotte 3-way bodysuit can be worn three ways under suiting. The Starry Silk Teddy and the Juliet Button Slip in silk georgette are the ones I would put under a trench for the walk to dinner. Kiki de Montparnasse's All Over Lace Halter Mini Slip Dress is the sheer one, made for an oversized blazer. Bordelle's Cymatic Basque corset bra is the structured option, and it looks best under a loose blazer with the jacket left open. Roland Mouret's Bow-detail jacquard bodysuit in black is the one I would wear as a blouse, with the bow showing at the neck of a jacket, and Rebecca Vallance's Tamera lace-trimmed satin slip dress is the long black slip for evenings.

 

What I would skip: wearing a bodysuit under something you cannot easily take off, like a dress with a long zip down the back, unless you are comfortable with the logistics. I would also skip buying one without checking how the lining sits against lace, because a delicate lace can rub against rough knits and a thick sweater. If you are unsure, try it under the actual top you plan to wear.

When I choose a set, I run through the same short list every time. Band first, because it does the most work. Then the cups, then the straps, with a sit and stand in the fitting room to make sure nothing shifts. I do this under good light and with a plain top over it, so I can see what the shape does under real clothes.

 

Care matters too. Woman & Home's expert-sourced guide recommends hand washing a bra and air drying it away from direct heat, and I do exactly that for the lace and satin ones. It takes two minutes, and it is the reason my favorite pieces last.

 

Then I think about what the set is for. A black lace bralette under a white shirt is a good all-year pair. A satin slip and a bodysuit are what I would pack for a trip. Start with one set you will actually wear, and the rest of the drawer follows from there. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Silk Or Satin and White Mini Dress.

If you ever wondered what you are paying for, I explained silk vs satin, since one is a fiber and the other is a weave.