Most luxury denim differentiates itself through fabric quality and finish, which is a hard sell because good denim is not hard to find. Loewe went a different route under Jonathan Anderson and made the cut the whole argument. Loewe jeans use barrel legs that curve out at the thigh and taper at the ankle, balloon silhouettes that hold air, and draped constructions where the denim falls rather than fits. These are pattern-cutting exercises that happen to be made in denim, which is an entirely different proposition from a well-made straight leg.

The Barrel is the signature and appears here in dark blue, sand jacquard, washed denim with an Anagram, and a balloon variation. It is the shape that changed the brand's denim business and the one that has been most widely imitated since. The Anagram Baggy in white is the loosest and the most casual. The Draped Jeans in blue are the most technically interesting, with the fabric gathered so it falls away from the body. The Anagram Jeans in black are the closest to a conventional jean in this group and the easiest entry point. The all-over LOEWE embroidered pair is the loudest and the most committed. Sand jacquard is a woven pattern rather than a print, which is worth knowing because it will not fade.

This is the big grid. The wide legs with the Anagram on the knee are the easiest Loewe jeans to wear, the faded barrels are the shape the house is known for, and the Paula's Ibiza pairs are the ones with print, flare or white denim. I would start with a plain wash and add the print only after I trust the fit.

The barrel leg is the shape to try, and it is the one that surprises you on the body. It looks strange on a hanger and reads as deliberate and flattering on, because the volume at the thigh disguises far more than a straight leg does. Black Anagram jeans are the sensible first purchase if you want to test the brand. Volume cuts need a fitted top to balance them, or the whole thing reads as too much fabric. The draped pair is the hardest to wear and the most rewarding when it works. Check the size notes on each retailer page, since the volume is designed in and sizing up adds more of it. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Barrel Denim and Barrel and Curved-Leg Jeans.