The tabi is a Japanese split-toe sock dating to the fifteenth century, adapted into footwear for workers who needed grip. Martin Margiela put it on a runway in his first collection in 1988, and the shoe has been in continuous production ever since, which makes it one of the longest-running provocations in fashion. What keeps it interesting is that it is not decorative: the split is structural and the shoe genuinely fits differently, with the big toe separated. That is why it reads as a commitment rather than a purchase.

Tabi leather ankle boots and split-toe leather ankle boots are the core pieces and the most recognisable. Split-toe suede ankle boots from the MM6 line are the softer version. Tabi 80 pumps and Tabi 30 split-toe leather pumps take the shape into heels at two heights, and the split toe block heel booties are the most walkable of these maison margiela tabi options. Leather pump mules remove the back and the Tabi City split-toe leather sandals open the shoe up entirely.

The split requires tabi socks or bare feet, and ordinary socks will bunch painfully, which is the single most common complaint from first-time buyers. The shoe also runs narrow and the toe separation means half sizes matter more than usual. Cylindrical heels on the classic boot are less stable than a block and take practice on cobbles. Resoling is possible and worth budgeting for, because the leather uppers outlast the soles considerably. If you take one thing away, buy tabi socks at the same time or the first wear will put you off permanently. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Margiela Tabi and Tabi Flats Are The Split Toe Without The Commitment.