Marta Ferri Dresses: Printed Maxis and Midis From Upholstery Fabric

Marta Ferri Dresses: Printed Maxis and Midis From Upholstery Fabric

Marta Ferri dresses began in 2011, when she built her first collection entirely from upholstery fabric. I look at the printed maxi and midi dresses and how to treat the print like a color.

A Dress With A Point Of View

Marta Ferri came to fashion through fabric, not sketches. She is the daughter of photographer Fabrizio Ferri and interior decorator Barbara Frua, and that mixed upbringing shows: her first collection, from 2011, was made entirely of upholstery fabric and earned a special mention from the Who's on Next talent search for how unexpected the materials felt on a body. By 2014 she had stepped back from ready-to-wear entirely to open her own atelier in Milan, building custom pieces one client at a time. That history is why a Marta Ferri dress tends to read as a fabric statement before it reads as formalwear. I went deeper on a related idea in Black Lace Dress: Minis, Midis and Corsets for a Fabric Chanel Loved.

The Colonna printed cotton maxi dress and the Camogli ruched halterneck midi dress both carry that instinct, heavy on pattern and cut to hold a room rather than disappear into it. The Praga embroidered midi dress is quieter, letting the embroidery carry the attention instead of a print. I would pick whichever of the three matches the kind of attention you actually want at the event, then stop there.

Treat The Print Like A Color

Marta Ferri is not for a closet that needs everything to match. The upholstery instinct behind her work rewards confidence: buy the piece with the boldest print or busiest embroidery, then treat it like a color rather than an outfit assembled from scratch. I would start with a dress before a skirt or blouse, since the shape carries more of the work alone. Skip anything that needs three additions before it feels finished, because that usually means it was the wrong piece to begin with. The pieces that hold up over years are often the ones that felt slightly too strong in the fitting room. Wear it once, notice what people actually say about it, and you will know whether it is a keeper or a costume.