A coat is where a Paris tailor shows what he knows, and Martin Grant has a gift for them. A wide shawl collar in black, a belted camel trench, a hooded navy coat and a checked jacket with a boxy shape each keep the cut clean and let the fabric do the talking. He is known for reinterpreting wardrobe classics, and these read as classics with one precise twist. I would wear the navy one over everything.

The jackets are cut close and structured, with patch pockets, a double breasted front and a shoulder that is sharp without being stiff. Beside them sit a crisp white shirt dress and a blouse with a gathered neckline and full sleeves. Wear the shirt under the jacket for a quiet, polished day.

A navy dress with balloon sleeves and a belt, a fitted black dress with a flared skirt, a black jumpsuit and a full red skirt show his draping at its most graceful. Everything has movement and everything is cut to look good in motion. The red skirt with a black knit is all you need for an evening.

Not every piece is new, which makes the brand's older work more special. There is a 1990s hourglass skirt suit in grey wool, a full skirt in metallic gold leopard jacquard, a draped black smock dress with a beaded neckline and a white shearling coat. I like the contrast between a strict suit and a skirt that moves.

Start with one coat you can wear for years, then build the tailoring around it. Martin Grant is for women who want clothes that look as if they were sculpted for them, and that is exactly how they are made.

To round out the look, see Akris Coats and Tailoring and Altuzarra Dresses and Tailoring.