Moncler was founded in 1952 in Monestier-de-Clermont, a mountain village near Grenoble, by René Ramillon and André Vincent, and the name is short for that village. In 1954 its down jackets equipped the Italian expedition that reached the summit of K2, and in 1968 it became the official supplier of the French downhill ski team at the Grenoble Winter Olympics. Remo Ruffini bought the company in 2003 and took the jacket from the mountain to the street, according to the Moncler Group's own history.

 

The first grid is where I would start. The Maya 70 hooded jacket is the classic glossy puffer, the Iberis has a half-zip for a cleaner neckline, and the Cedre and Mallero bring in teddy fleece for a softer surface. The Agastache in cashmere and linen is the one that does not look like a puffer at all. At the end of the grid the Glements, Igelhood, Arvouinne and Bady are the shorter hooded Moncler jackets, which are easier to drive in.

This grid is the everyday group, and it is mostly about hoods and texture. The Parana and the Raies are the straightforward hooded puffers, and the Lavaret and Feligule are the quieter down jackets that go over everything. The hooded bouclé down jacket and the Cristallin wool-blend teddy feel more like knitwear than outerwear.

 

The Rougequeue, the Aurore and the Cupidones all have shearling trim at the collar, which frames the face and keeps the neck warm without a scarf. The Cloante is checked, so keep the rest of the outfit plain. Zip it all the way up in the fitting room and make sure the hood sits comfortably behind your head.

Here the shapes get more interesting. The Immersif is a convertible jacket, the Tipule is quilted and reversible, and the Paneled quilted down jacket mixes stitching directions so the surface catches light in different places. The Blaireau adds shearling trim, and the Fourmines is the hooded style in the set. Further down, the Laplance and Wollemi are ski jackets from Moncler Grenoble, the Blas comes from the Moncler Genius collaboration with Edward Enninful, and the Cygnes is belted.

 

The plainer Jasmin, Avoce, Suyenne, Maire and Hypolais are the ones to wear hardest. My test is to cross your arms and see whether the sleeves pull across the back. A down jacket that lets you reach and sit is the one you will actually wear every morning.

Longer coats are for anyone who stands at a bus stop or walks the city all winter. The Marusse and Courcelles are hooded down coats that cover you to the knee, the Jujulong is quilted and long, and the Ornement has a tie neck that shapes the silhouette. The Hirmas is the colour pick in this group, a hooded down coat listed in blue that reads very dark navy. The Menthelong is quilted with a waist seam, the Leersies is belted with a shearling hood, and the Hermine rounds out the long shapes.

 

The Leandro, Hiengos and Halicte are parkas, which means a little more structure and usually a drawcord at the waist. The Anthrene is a reversible wool and cashmere coat, and the Boedic has shearling trim. Check the length against your boots before you buy, because a coat that hits mid-calf can look different from a coat that hits the knee.

This is the softest grid, and the one I would browse if you want a down coat that still looks dressed. The Hainardia is a teddy down coat, the Moustique is hooded with shearling, and the shearling-trimmed down coat brings the same warm texture to the collar. The Cotonniere and the Pic are quilted and hooded, which keeps them practical.

 

The Weteau, Serin and Enette are hooded parkas, and the Cavettaz, Erysimum and Harfang are the cleaner down coats in the set. They look good over tailoring, because the line stays long and narrow. The Bruneaux has shearling trim, and the Arly and Blavet are the long faux fur and teddy coats, with the Valdivian as the faux fur ski jacket. Wipe teddy and shearling gently and let them dry flat, and never use a heavy brush.

These are the lighter pieces, and the ones I reach for in October before the real cold arrives. The Avoine, Eucalyptus, Jasione and Bardanette are cropped down jackets, and the corduroy down bomber and the Gruissan cotton-blend bomber are the casual option for denim. The Coquelicot, Fegeos and Reghena are technical jackets with a sportier finish.

 

A cropped jacket works best with a high waist, so try it with trousers and a skirt before deciding. The Lans packable jacket, the Mondim metallic ski jacket and the Jersey field jacket join the technical group, and the knit wool-mohair down jacket with two down cardigans is the softest corner of the grid. The Celepine and Frele in nylon are the lightest, and the printed styles are the ones that carry a plain outfit by themselves. Give the hem a quick tug in the mirror to see where it lands.

A vest keeps your core warm and leaves your arms free, which makes it the most useful layer between seasons. The Ghany, Frelon and Alpiste are quilted down vests, the Liane is cropped, and the Alshain has a technical finish. The Mimosas is a teddy vest, and the Bessez in denim is the one for anyone who wants something different from black.

 

The Cygnette is belted, so it shapes the waist over a long knit. Later in the grid the Igens, Otis, Lempa and Faucille are more down vests, the Arve is faux fur, the Gumiane is ripstop and the Pinchot is lame, with a down cardigan at the end. Wear any of these over a fine sweater or under a coat, and keep the sleeves slim so the layers do not bunch. If you are buying your first one, pick the plainest quilted style.

Not every Moncler jacket is a puffer, and this grid is proof. The Zelkova, Serin hooded canvas, Hooded cotton-blend and Cassiopea gabardine jackets are lightweight and meant for mild weather. The Pluvier, the Checked cotton-blend and the Gingham are patterned, and the Striped wool-blend teddy and the Teddy blouson are softer.

 

The Maitake has leather trim and is the most polished of the group. The Erable is cotton with a fleece lining, the Marmacy is a navy nylon rain jacket, the Noisetier is printed with flowers and the Sarracenia is a soft pink hooded jacket. These are the jackets for rainy spring days and the first cool evenings of fall, and they fold up smaller than a down piece. I would skip them if what you want is real winter warmth.

Start with how cold your winter really gets. If you spend most of it walking, a long down coat from the fourth grid is worth the room in the closet, and if you commute by car, a short jacket from the first three is enough. Choose the colour you already wear, and then think about the hood.

 

For the lightest pieces, look at the cropped and vest grids. Hang the jacket up at home and brush off any dust with a soft cloth, and have it cleaned by a down specialist rather than washing it yourself. The one you wear every day is better than the one you save. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Vintage Opera Coats and Long Leather Coats.