Off-White

Off-White was founded by Virgil Abloh, in 2013 by the brand's own account, though other sources date it to 2012. It began as Pyrex Vision, deadstock Ralph Lauren flannels screen-printed with Pyrex 23, a nod to Michael Jordan, before it was renamed. The name comes from the gray area between black and white, imagined as a color, and the design studio is in Milan. Abloh launched womenswear in 2014, and in 2015 the label was a finalist for the LVMH Prize. The accessories are the easiest entry into that world. The sunglasses run from the Aspen 141mm square and the Catalina rectangular pairs to the Matera acetate cat-eye, the Mystic, Arthur, Fillmore, Cary arrow rectangular and Greeley geometric frames, so there is a shape for most faces. The Discreet watch and the Proto Auto watch are quieter, and the Off Stamp loose knit beanie is the graphic one. For the sunglasses shapes, a Miu Miu sunglasses dupe guide is a helpful comparison of slim ovals and tortoise. A simple test is to hold a pair up to your face shape: the square Aspen and Arthur frames sit well against a rounder face, while the Matera cat-eye lifts a softer one.

The tops are where the label's graphic language is clearest. The black Off stamp basic T-shirt, the Starcity raglan hoodie and the Swarovski double eagle slim tee are the most direct, with the Show Nyl slim tee and the color insert tee close behind. The gray flowers field skate T-shirt, the gray bookish flower crop T-shirt and the gray embroidered big paisley skate hoodie bring a softer pattern. The black embroidered arrow out flower zipup sweatshirt and the black embroidered script crop polo carry the arrow and script ideas, while the geo mirror rib color block shirt and the seamless color block top in sand Barbados are the quieter sports-inspired pieces. What I would skip is layering two heavily printed tops together, because the graphics cancel each other out; choose one and leave the rest plain. For more on fleece, Ralph Lauren fleece is a good reference, given the brand's own Ralph Lauren flannel beginnings.

The sneakers are where the names are best. The Out Of Office line appears as a logo low-top, a bicolor pair, an arrow leather trainer and a leather trainer, and the Be Right Back appears as a mesh and faux-leather low-top and a mesh sneaker. The beige and khaki low top 3.0 Off Court sneakers are the cleanest, and the Reboot graphic rain boots handle bad weather. I would wear the low-tops with trousers that just reach the shoe, and what shoes to wear with jeans helps with the hem question. For something with more tread, the lug-sole shoe offers boots and loafers. The graphic rain boots are the exception, since they work best when the rest of the outfit is plain, and the Off Court pair is the one that suits a simple tee and wide trousers.

The bottoms mix tailoring and sportswear in the way the label likes. The black wool double over trousers, the mid-rise technical flared pants and the Fluid Track OW slim pant are the clean ones, the blue paisley Susy jeans and the black velvet coated Meteor faux-leather pants add more attitude, and the color block leggings and seamless color block capri pant are the athletic side. The Imprint Crayon Stick 2-piece set is the most playful item in the group. If you like loose shapes, satin pants shows how to balance wide legs with a fitted top. I would pair the wool double over trousers with a plain knit and save the velvet coated pants for evenings, when the shine looks intentional.

The final group is the smallest and the most varied. The Jitney quote tote and the black Sandbag 404 diagonal bag use the brand's quotation marks and industrial feel, and the Paperclip necklace and the Paperclip Strass necklace are the jewelry. The black Off stamp rib round minidress and the asymmetric denim shirt dress are the two dresses, while the Skeletor Color Matter nail polish box and the Imprint crayon stick show how far into objects the brand goes. Collections span men's and women's clothing, objects, furniture and publications, so a crayon stick or a nail polish box is not as random as it first seems. The quote tote is the simplest of the group to wear every day, and the paperclip necklace works as a quiet counterweight to it.

Picture her in the Starcity hoodie, the flared technical pants and a pair of Out Of Office low-tops, with Catalina sunglasses on top. Virgil Abloh was named artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear in 2018, LVMH took a 60 percent stake in Off-White in July 2021, and after Abloh's death in November 2021, Ib Kamara became Art and Image Director in 2022. The clothes still read as Abloh's gray area, between streetwear and tailoring.