Few coats have stayed as consistent as the peacoat. The shape began as naval outerwear, built from heavy wool with a broad collar that could be turned up against wind, and the core details have barely changed since. A double row of buttons, slanted hand pockets and a hem that hits around the hip give it a compact, tidy silhouette that suits almost every body type. Navy remains the default for good reason, since it looks crisp with blue jeans and softer than black against the face. Camel and cream feel warmer and more relaxed, while houndstooth and charcoal lean polished. Newer versions play with proportion, cropping the body shorter or exaggerating the collar, but the best ones still keep the structure that makes the coat look so put together. Look for dense wool that holds its shape and buttons that feel sturdy in the hand.

A peacoat looks right with straight leg jeans and loafers, but it also works with a pleated mini skirt, tights and knee boots. Wear it buttoned for a neat line or open over a striped knit for something more casual. Turning the collar up adds warmth and a bit of attitude. Keep accessories simple, perhaps a wool scarf in a contrasting shade and a structured shoulder bag, so the coat stays the focus.

We think a navy peacoat in heavy wool is one of the safest outerwear purchases you can make, because it looks just as good years from now as it does this week. Cropped versions are great if you mostly wear high rise trousers or skirts, while a longer cut covers more on bitter days. Check that the shoulders sit right when the coat is fully buttoned, since a double breasted front shows every fitting issue. Our advice is to buy the classic first, then add a lighter shade later if you love the shape.