Chanel makes other things for men, and this second row shows the range. Platinum Égoïste Eau de Toilette is the classic, clean and slightly formal, the one that reminds me of a barber shop. Allure Homme Eau de Toilette is a bit warmer and easier to wear day to day. Allure Homme Sport Eau Extrême Eau de Parfum is the sportier, more intense version, meant for the gym bag and for long, busy days.

What ties them together is a certain restraint. Nothing in the Chanel line smells like it is trying to shout. That is a hard quality to fake, and it explains why men who wear one of these tend to stay with the house for years. They are the kind of bottles that make someone say you smell nice and then not be able to say why.

I would use this row as a way to cover different moments. Bleu for the everyday, Allure Homme for the office when you want something warmer, Platinum Égoïste for the evening when you want to look put together. Sport Eau Extrême is the one for when you have somewhere to be after the gym and no time to shower properly, though I would not use any fragrance as a substitute for that.

There is no need to own all of them. One bottle from each row, at most, is a complete wardrobe for most men I know.

A small habit: put fragrance on after you have dried off and moisturized, since lightly moisturized skin holds scent longer than dry skin.

If you like the shape of Bleu, meaning citrus over wood with a bit of freshness, there is a lot to compare it with. These eight are woody, citrusy or both, and each does something different.

Tom Ford's Noir Extreme with amber and sandalwood is the richest of the group, darker and more sensual. Jo Malone London's Orange Marmalade Cologne is the lightest, a bright, sunny wash of orange. Rabanne's 1 Million Black with vanilla is sweet and warm, more of an evening bottle. Prada's Luna Rossa Eau de Toilette with lavender and sage is clean, herbal and fresh. Lore's Somewhere but nowhere with cedarwood is quiet and modern, closer to a walk in a forest. Viktor&Rolf's Spicebomb Night Vision Cologne with citrus and woods is spicy and dry, with a slightly nocturnal feel.

I would not call any of these a replacement for Bleu, since it has its own character. But if you like that family, this is a good place to give an afternoon to smelling.

What I would skip: layering two of these on the same day in the hope of making a signature scent. Woods and citrus fight each other when you stack them, and the result is usually muddy. Choose one and let it do its work.

My advice is to pick one bottle and wear it long enough to know it. Two sprays on the neck and chest after a shower is plenty for a workday, and a third for an evening out. Keep the bottle in a cool drawer rather than on a windowsill, because heat and light are hard on any fragrance.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum is the one I would choose if I wanted a single bottle to last a season. If you are undecided, ask what you want it to do. For a first meeting or an interview, something quiet like the Eau de Toilette is safer than a rich Parfum. For a dinner, the deeper bottle gives you presence without raising your voice. Then, when the weather changes, add a lighter bottle for summer and let the two of them take turns.

Once you have settled on a Bleu de Chanel strength, it helps to see the neighbors, because the same house has a few other ideas for a man's bathroom shelf. Allure Homme Sport and Allure Homme Sport Superleggera are my choices for the gym bag, while Paris-Deauville is the one for warm days. For the woody and leather end, I would try Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Oud Wood and Noir Extreme. The Jo Malone London Grapefruit, Basil & Neroli and English Oak & Hazelnut colognes are lighter, easier to wear to the office. Prada Luna Rossa Carbon and Ocean sit between the two. What I would skip: Spicebomb Night Vision for a first meeting, since the name already says it is for evenings. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Prada Paradigme Eau de Parfum Starts With the Base and Works Up and Night Parfum.