Rene Caovilla Heels Wrap The Ankle Like Jewellery

The Venetian house has been making shoes since 1934 and found its signature in a coiled ankle strap that wraps the leg like a snake, usually encrusted with crystal. That single idea, the Cleo, has carried the brand for years because it solves a real problem in evening footwear: a sandal is mostly empty space and the strap is the only place to put any design. Hand-setting crystals onto a coil that has to flex is genuinely difficult manufacturing, which is where the work goes. The lineage is Italian couture shoemaking rather than anything contemporary.

The Cleo embellished sandals, Cleo Spark embellished sandals and Cleo embellished strappy sandals are the core pieces and the ones the house is known for. Super Cleo is the most maximal version, and the Cleo also comes in snake strass and animalier finishes. Embellished ankle coil sandals are the clearest expression of the wrapping idea in these rene caovilla heels, and the Juniper, Leaf, Eva and Bloom sandals carry it into metal, crystal leaves and flowers, while Chandelier adds dangling crystal fringe. Margot butterfly embellished sandals are the most literal, Floriane sandals are the quietest shape here, and the plain ankle strap sandals are the entry point into the range.

A shoe this decorated wants a plain, fluid dress, so the slip dresses here come in silk and satin. A metallic, velvet or leather clutch and one pair of crystal or statement earrings finish it without competing with the ankle. Bare legs are the rule, since crystals catch on hosiery.

Coiled ankle straps take practice to fasten and the crystals catch on tights and hosiery, so these are a bare-leg shoe in practice regardless of the weather. Hand-set stones will come loose and the house does repair them, but a stone lost at an event is not replaceable that night, so check them before leaving. Thin evening soles offer nothing underfoot and wear through on pavement within a few outings. Satin uppers mark permanently from water. If you take one thing away, these are an indoor evening shoe and treating them as anything else will ruin them in a season. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Dior Heels Are Built On A Very Specific Idea Of Poise and Ballet Heels and How to Style Them.