Retinaldehyde Sits One Step Ahead of Retinol, and Nine Brands Have Noticed

Retinaldehyde Sits One Step Ahead of Retinol, and Nine Brands Have Noticed

Retinaldehyde, usually shortened to retinal, is the retinoid one conversion step from the active form skin actually uses. Here are nine brands that build serums, eye products, night creams and body treatments around it.

Every retinoid you smooth onto your face is really a messenger for retinoic acid. A published review of retinoids describes the path: retinol is oxidized to retinaldehyde, and retinaldehyde is oxidized to retinoic acid, the form skin can use. Retinaldehyde, usually shortened to retinal, is the middle rung of that ladder. Brands take that position seriously. Medik8 was founded in 2009 by UK scientist Elliot Isaacs, and it says Crystal Retinal, formulated in 2018 with his chemist brother Daniel, won a global patent for stabilizing the ingredient. Avène belongs to the Pierre Fabre group and sells a retinal cream built on thermal spring water from a source people have bathed in since 1743. Dieux launched in September 2020 with an eye mask, founded by Charlotte Palermino, Joyce de Lemos and Marta Freedman. Thome is a Korean beauty-device brand, and it named its CPR serum for collagen, peptide and retinal. Nine brands share this edit, from a dermatologist founder at Murad to a Korean brand that draws on a Joseon-era encyclopedia. I will go face first, then eyes, then creams, gels and the body. One rule runs through all of it: the American Academy of Dermatology says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy, so anyone pregnant or trying to be should ask a doctor first, and everyone else should ease in slowly and wear sunscreen every morning.

Twelve boxes on a pale gray page, one for each product in this edit, each with its brand and name printed below: The Inkey List Advanced Retinal Serum, Dieux Firm Revival HydroRetinal Serum, Thome CPR Triple-Synergy Wrinkle Care Serum, Avène RetrinAL Intensive Multi-Corrective Cream, Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye 3, Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum with Ginseng + Retinal, Murad Retinal ReSculpt Advanced Eye Lift Treatment, Avène RetrinAL Eyes Advanced 3-in-1 Eye Cream, Murad Retinal ReSculpt Overnight Cream, Murad Retinal ReSculpt Firming Body Treatment Cream, Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.10% and Prequel Retinal Serum 0.1% Retinaldehyde Gel.
Retinaldehyde

Eyes get their own plan

Grid two is all eyes, and I trust brands that say the eye area needs its own plan. Medik8's Daniel Isaacs calls Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye the first clinical-strength retinal for under the eye, and the brand says it uses two forms of encapsulated retinaldehyde with ceramide and hyaluronic acid spheres. Beauty of Joseon takes its eight key ingredients from the Gyuhap Chongseo, a Joseon-era book of women's knowledge, and its Revive Eye Serum adds retinal and ginseng. Murad's Retinal ReSculpt eye treatment pairs encapsulated retinal with gentian root extract and an oat film. Avène's RetrinAL Eyes is a 3-in-1 cream made with retinal for lines, puffiness and dark circles, according to the brand. The retinal vs retinol question matters most here, because the skin around the eyes is thin and easy to irritate. Use a small amount, pat it on with a ring finger, and start at night.

Night creams, a body cream and a habit to skip

Grid three is where the formats stretch. Dr. Howard Murad, a dermatologist and pharmacist, founded Murad in 1989, and the brand calls its Retinal ReSculpt Overnight Cream a retinal night cream with encapsulated retinal and an NAD+ Lift Complex. Its Body Treatment Cream brings encapsulated retinal to the body. Naturium began in 2019 as a launch from the brand accelerator The Center, Susan Yara joined as founder in 2020, and e.l.f. Beauty bought it in 2023. Its Cream Serum 0.10% uses sustained-release retinaldehyde, with a gentler 0.05% in the same family. Prequel was founded by dermatologist Dr. Samantha Ellis and launched in July 2023, and the brand tells new retinoid users to patch test and start slowly with its 0.1% gel. What I would skip is the nightly start. The AAD suggests every other night at first, and I would add the body cream a few weeks after the face.

Every other night, then see

Retinal is something to meet slowly, whatever the label says. Pick one product from this edit, use a small amount every other night to begin, moisturize after, and let skin tell you when to add a night. Sunscreen goes on every morning, because retinoids make skin more sensitive to sun. If you are pregnant or trying to be, or if your skin is very reactive, a doctor should be the first stop. The best retinoid is the one you can keep using calmly. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together DRMTLGY Retinol Body Lotion.