Roberto Cavalli Spring 2027: Milan Is Partying Again

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2027: Milan Is Partying Again

Fausto Puglisi goes all-in on Cavalli nostalgia, spiking the house prints with a clubby edge. Animal print appears in most looks in a collection built for good times.

Cavalli deep cuts are back

Archival Roberto Cavalli is having a moment. A rare stash of the designer's seventies printed leathers went shown and sold at a vintage shop called Reracked upstate, and the younger, punkier Just Cavalli pieces from the 2000s are being hunted on resale.

Fausto Puglisi, the creative director, picked up on that nostalgia, and I think he was right to. Over five years he has sometimes drifted from the house's glamazon habits, but this time he went all-in, adding a clubby edge to the signature animal prints, velvet devorés and embroideries.

Animal print showed up in most of the looks, which feels like a proper return to the house. Printed dresses are where I would begin.

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2027 runway: five colors counted from every look

One piece, all the pattern

The collection focused on separates, so I will say plainly that a jumpsuit is my own way of getting the same energy in a single piece. It is a small cheat, but a good one.

The grid below is full of print, from a jaguar cutout in jersey to a trompe l'oeil flare, and that kaleidoscope of pattern is the point. In a fashion week dominated by black, white and beige, color and texture stood out loudly.

Fringe or feathers appeared in about a quarter of the looks, so a jumpsuit with some movement in it would fit well. I would wear one with heels, because the front rows are trending that way after years of quiet practicality.

The girlies get separates

This is the part that really is the show. Miniskirts, bike shorts, halter tops, hot pants, delicate camis trimmed in lace and embellished low-slung jeans with thongs showing at the waist, all of it built for a night out. About a quarter of the looks were mini length.

Puglisi said he was thinking about the time we are living in, and I think his instincts are right. Clothes are looking for fun again, and a leopard-print tie-neck blouse or sheer printed flares feels like a clear answer.

Zebra-print shoes appeared on a handful of looks, and sunglasses on only a few. I like that the accessories stayed out of the way so the separates could do the talking.

Good times, on purpose

Puglisi's list of references went on and on, naming Courtney Love at her grungiest, a Zendaya moment, a teen TV classic and a Todd Gray work at LACMA that he liked for putting different worlds in dialogue. I take it all as subtext.

What I care about is that these are clothes for stoking good times, and he is indisputably good at that. As an observer said at an industry dinner after the show, Milan is partying again.

I would take the printed mini, the biggest heels I own and a little attitude. That is the right way to say yes to this one.