In the early 1920s, Madeleine Vionnet's Paris house became known for the bias cut: fabric cut across the grain so a dress drapes over the body instead of being built around it. By the early 1930s the low-backed satin evening dress was the look of the decade, and the V&A still calls Vionnet one of Europe's greatest couturiers. Almost every satin dress below owes her something, even the ones with a cape or a fringe.

 

The first grid runs from slip to gown. Arcina Ori does the long liquid columns, in ivory, butter yellow, sage and a deep wine with a trailing scarf. Third Form is the easiest place to start, with lace-inset midis and a strapless maxi that would work for a wedding. The SIMKHAI draped gowns and the Amsale cape gown are the most formal, and the Fleur du Mal and Co slips, both edged in lace, are the ones I would wear to dinner with a cardigan. For something shorter, the Marlies Grace mini has a wide band at the hem and the Matthew Bruch twist scarf mini sits high at the neck. House of Dagmar and BONDI BORN keep it plain in ivory and black.

 

My test: sit down in it. Satin shows every crease and pull, so a dress that looks perfect standing can bunch at the hip once you sit, and the hip is where I check the fit before anything else. What I would skip: a very pale satin for an outdoor summer wedding, since it shows every mark by the end of the night.

Satin is woven so more of the thread sits on the surface, which is why it catches the light and makes a strong colour look even stronger. That is the case for this second grid.

 

The Stella McCartney red one-shoulder mini and yellow slip are the loudest, and the Ulla Johnson strapless dress comes in hot pink with a ruffled neckline. The Reformation silk slips in gold, mint and an orange print are the everyday versions, and the RAILS dress in espresso is the one I would wear most. DES_PHEMMES does a yellow floral one-shoulder dress, De La Vali a long pink dress with cape sleeves, and Sleeping with Jacques a pale blue slip with a white lace yoke. The ALÉMAIS pleated midi has a pink and green floral print, the VERANDAH halter maxi is a dark tropical print, and the ROTATE polka-dot midi feels the most like a party. Toteme's olive dress is the quiet one.

 

My tip: pick one strong colour and keep the shoes and bag plain, or match them to the dress exactly. What I would skip: a bright satin with a busy print bag, because the two fight for attention.

Pick the length first, then the colour. A midi or a slip covers most dinners and weddings, and a gown is worth it only once you have the event on the calendar.

 

Satin creases, so I steam it right before I leave and carry a light coat rather than a heavy one that will crush it. If I could keep only two, it would be the RAILS espresso dress for its colour and the Co lace slip for dinner. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Wedding Dresses and Cocktail Dresses for Evenings That Start at Six.