Sculptural Gold Jewelry for Fall

Sculptural Gold Jewelry for Fall

Molten, hammered and pinched: sculptural gold earrings, ear cuffs, cuffs, bangles, necklaces and rings

Fall is when I start wearing more jewelry, mostly because there are more black turtlenecks and camel coats that need something. And the jewelry I keep saving isn't delicate. It's gold that looks poured, pinched or hammered, pieces with weight and a bit of wobble to them.

Sculptural jewelry works because it reads as one object rather than a pile of chains. You wear one great earring and the outfit is done. It also looks lovely in low winter light, when polished gold throws a warm glow back onto your face.

Start with your ears. Mateo's Mini Venus earrings are little gold shells, fine jewelry you could wear every day. Khaite's Keefe earrings are small, puffy and curved, like a pebble with a dent in it. The Cult Gaia Analeia earring is gold foiled wood, so it's big without being heavy. And if you have a single piercing, try an ear cuff instead. The Paola Sighinolfi Zoe cuff is textured and chunky, and Jenny Bird's Gio cuff is a little swirl for $98.

One thing I've learned the hard way: try earrings on with your hair the way you usually wear it. A sculptural drop that looks perfect with a sleek bun can disappear completely under loose waves.

Collage of sculptural gold jewelry from this edit, with a mood photo

A gold cuff does what a watch used to do: it finishes a wrist. With the sleeves of a knit pushed up, it's the thing everyone notices.

Saint Laurent's Cassandre hammered cuff is a big YSL logo in gold-tone metal, so buy it only if you love the logo. The plain Saint Laurent gold-tone cuff is thick and molten-looking with no logo at all, and it's the more wearable of the two. Completedworks' Scrunch cuff looks like crumpled foil in gold vermeil, the most sculptural piece in the whole story. Ysso's Louiza and Labyrinth cuffs are gold-plated with an organic, carved texture. Gucci's Horsebit bangle is the classic.

For a smaller budget, Jenny Bird's Yaya and Ola arm cuffs are $130 and $138. Wear one high on the arm with a sleeveless dress, or on the wrist next to a watch.

Cuffs look best on a bare wrist or over a fitted sleeve. On a chunky, loose knit they slide around and get lost, so push the sleeve up and let the metal sit against your skin.

Necklaces and rings finish the story. One strong pendant on a plain neckline is enough.

Khaite's Medium Lotus pendant hangs a curved gold drop from a black cord, which feels modern and a little seventies. Chloé's Tulip necklace is a gold-tone collar with a flower bud charm, and its Pendant necklace wraps several chains around an open gold circle. Jenny Bird's Large Sundra pendant is $158 and does a lot for the price.

For rings, think big. Bottega Veneta's gold-plated ring is chunky and braided, a real statement at $1,300. Khaite's Lotus ring is the softer, sculptural sibling of the pendant. Jenny Bird's Woven Square Signet Ring is a small, polished signet for $108.

Sculptural gold looks best when it isn't competing, so let it be the only jewelry you wear that day.

Our honest take

Gold jewelry is where it's easiest to overspend on a trend. The sculptural look is everywhere, which means plenty of thinly plated copies that turn brassy by spring.

What I'd skip: very cheap plated pieces if you plan to wear them daily, and big logo cuffs unless you already know you love the logo. I'd also skip buying earrings, a necklace and a cuff all at once. Sculptural pieces compete with each other, so start with one.

If you take one thing away, it's this: buy one great sculptural piece and wear it constantly. Earrings get the most wear for the money, then a cuff. Choose solid gold or vermeil for anything that touches your skin every day, and gold-plated for pieces you'll rotate. The right piece makes a black sweater look like an outfit.