Brylcreem launched in Birmingham on 16 April 1928, made by the County Chemical Company. It was an emulsion of water and mineral oil stabilised with beeswax, sold first through barbers, and it arrived to replace the greasy brilliantine, pomades and gums men had used before it. Those earlier products had made sleek hair fashionable, most famously on the silent film star Rudolph Valentino. The point of the cream was simple: the same polished, combed-back look, with less mess.

Nearly a century on, slick back hair is still about that trade between shine and control, and the products have simply become more particular. A gel gives the wet-look shine. A pomade gives a softer, shaped hold. Edge control handles the hairline, and an oil finishes the surface. What I like about the modern version is how many different people it now suits, from a low bun for a wedding to a wet-look ponytail for the gym.

The trick is to start with the gel, and to apply it to damp hair, as stylist Ursula Stephen tells Harper's Bazaar, so it spreads easily and you use less. The first grid is the whole range of hold. Crown Affair's Flexible Hold Finishing Hair Gel is the gentle one, and Kenra Professional's Styling Gel 17 is a strong hold formula for a look that has to stay put. PATTERN's Strong Hold gel and Chris McMillan's buildable, strong hold gel are the ones for a firmer finish. Ceremonia's Pequi is a medium hold, Bread Beauty Supply's Slick-hold Gel is named for exactly this look and Mizani's True Textures is a sleek holding gel for textured hair.

Here is how I would choose between gel and pomade: ask how long the style has to last. E Online notes that pomade does not hold a style as long as gel, so it is the better pick for a day that is loose and lived-in, and the gel is the one for a night out.

Moroccanoil's Strong Hold High Shine Sculpting Pomade is the glossy one, and Bumble and bumble's Semisumo Hi-Shine Pomade leans the same way. Jack Black's Clay Pomade is the matte counterpart, and Kérastase's Genesis Homme is a light-hold wax pomade for a softer look. Charlotte Mensah's Manketti Oil Pomade is the oil-based, conditioning option. Redken's Brews Cream Pomade is the easy cream option, and Odele's Cream Pomade is medium hold with a matte finish, useful for a texture that does not look wet. Fix Your Lid's Extreme Hold Pomade is the one for a shape that has to survive a windy day.

A pairing I like: a pea of pomade through the ends of a ponytail and a gel on the top. The gel keeps the crown flat, and the pomade keeps the tail from frizzing.

What I would skip: a strong shiny pomade on very fine hair when you plan to sit in front of a heater. It will slump within an hour.

A rule for edge control: a small amount, and a soft brush. Apply along the hairline with a fingertip, then smooth it with an edge brush and let it set for a minute before you touch it again.

PATTERN's Edge Control and KISS's Edge Fixer Extreme Hold gel are the two I would try first, both aimed at a strong hold. Mielle's Organics Rosemary Mint Strengthening Edge Gel is the one with a strengthening claim on the label. Creme of Nature's Argan Oil Perfect Edges is extra firm, and ORS's Olive Oil Edge Control is also extra firm. Cantu's Extra Hold Edge Stay and EBIN's 24hr Edge Tamer are the ones for a long day, and Fenty Beauty's The Controlling Type is a hair-thickening edge gel, a different idea altogether.

Try this: if your edges are fine or fragile, choose the gentler gel and save the firm ones for special days. The AAD notes that long-lasting hold products combined with combing can lead to breakage, and the hairline is the place you will see it first.

What I would skip: piling edge control on top of yesterday's edge control. Wash it out gently before you start again.

Start with the smallest amount you can manage, and use it last. A slick back is meant to look polished, and too much oil will turn it into something closer to a wet dog.

E Online suggests finishing a ponytail with a hair oil for shine, and Allure recommends a lightweight oil through the mid-lengths of dry hair. Crown Affair's Radiance Hair Oil and Oribe's Gold Lust are both easy to like on a bun. Moroccanoil's Treatment is the familiar one, and Kérastase's Elixir Ultime is refillable, which is a sensible thing for a bottle you will use every week. Kérastase's Gloss Absolu Glaze Drops are aimed at frizz. Olaplex's No. 7 and OUAI's oil both include heat protection, and Gisou's Honey Infused Hair Oil Luxe is the richer one.

A pairing I like: gel for the roots and hairline, oil only from the ears down. That way the top looks wet and the ends look healthy.

What I would skip: oil right at the roots on the morning you want the style to last. It loosens the hold you just built.

I think the best slick-back is the simplest one. A gel you like, damp hair, a good brush and a light finish of oil. Try it on a quiet day before you need it for something.

And give your hair a rest, because the AAD says tight ponytails and buns can cause tension and, if they continue, permanent hair loss. Brylcreem promised the polished look with less mess. You can have the polish, and a looser day in between.

One more habit: keep a small brush by the door. Hair that is dry and lightly sprayed can be smoothed again before you leave, and it saves you from starting over. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Slick Back Brush and In-Shower Hair Gloss.