A shaft of sunlight angled into the courtyard of Palazzo Litta and landed on one unlucky corner of the audience, which was a perfect reminder of the concept: heat-wave dressing. Achille Maramotti founded Sportmax to reflect its moment, and hot weather is increasingly part of ours.

I love a brand that answers a real problem. The studio's plan was twofold. It took the arms off much of its outerwear, and it built full looks from layers of silk organza so light you could almost miss them. Leather in a show about heat seemed counterintuitive, yet a red leather blazer over a red leather hoodie looked good, and I would take the risk.

Sleeveless outerwear showed up in a handful of looks, so I want to begin with the jackets.

Trousers were the sleeper hit. There were many pairs of organza pants, belted at the ankle, and about a quarter of the looks wore sheer organza trousers. The organza was often doubled in different colors, or wrapped like a sheath around heavier pieces such as a cotton slip dress with lace embroidery.

To balance the slightly strange ankle cuffing, shirts were wrapped at the upper wrist too. Loose denim pants came with built-in belting, and voluminous shirting was tucked in with a lot of cleverness.

I think flared and wide-leg wool trousers work well with the same airy attitude. Sunglasses appeared in about one in five looks, which suits the sunlit mood.

The dresses are where the show gets playful. Several outfits had belts of shiny chrome metal, with garments hanging from them like curtains. A fitted knit-jersey dress had a curved peplum held up by narrow inserted poles, a bit like a pop-up sun shelter. It is a little silly and I adore it.

Some skirts were cut mini in front and three-quarter length in back, the most sensible response to heat I have seen. A draped jersey maxi or a sleeveless velvet minidress carries that idea in a calmer way. Bags were in most looks, and several were scrunchy drawstring handbags in a punchy orange.

I would wear most of this, starting with a cropped leather jacket over something sheer and the organza pants belted at the ankle. The scrunchy orange bag goes with everything, and orange appeared in only a handful of looks, so it still feels like a wink.

What stays with me is the honesty. The collection was sometimes so elaborate it contradicted its own point of breezy cool, and I like it more for that. It was an engaging show to watch in the sun, and I would happily sit in that sunbeam again.