The split toe came into fashion in 1988, borrowed from the jika-tabi, a Japanese work boot whose divided toe mirrors the traditional sock and gives grip. As a heeled boot it is a commitment. As a flat it becomes something closer to a ballet pump with an unusual outline, which is a far lower barrier and explains why the ballerina has become the most-sold version of the shape. The design still changes the silhouette of the foot, which is the whole point and the reason it remains provocative thirty-seven years on.

Tabi leather ballerina flats and Tabi split-toe leather ballet flats are the core pieces and the most recognisable. Split-toe suede ballet flats are the softest construction and split-toe textured-leather ballet flats the most durable finish among these tabi flats. Tabi New Ballerina in patent leather is the glossiest and the most formal. The Tabi Mary Janes add a strap, which changes the fit entirely, the Net-a-Porter split-toe leather flats are a strapped Mary Jane too, and the Tabi Daily mules remove the back.

Margiela keeps the split toe in leather, satin and patent. Staud, Aeyde, Gianvito Rossi, Toteme, Ferragamo and Camper make the same ballet shape with a plain toe, which is the safer pick if the split feels like too much. Try the split versions with a sheer sock for the full look.

Once you leave Margiela, the split toe gets a lot easier to wear. Matisse, Christen, Jeffrey Campbell, All Black, Therapy Australia and Steve Madden all cut the same divided toe into ballet flats, Mary Janes and a mule, and most of them are in leather rather than satin.

My favourite from other designers is the Matisse Mason in black. The split is quiet, the bow is small and the shape is a plain round ballet flat, so it reads as a normal flat first and a tabi second. The Christen leather flat with the contrast toe cap is the next one I would reach for, because the cap makes the split look drawn on purpose. For more hold, the Steve Madden Calara and Rapid Mary Janes and the Jeffrey Campbell Preakness stay on the foot better than a slip-on, and the All Black split-toe Mary Janes add a double buckle for the most dressed-up pair here.

Walk around the house in any pair before you commit, since the toe separation sits differently in every last. What I would skip is the mesh Calico if you want the full tabi effect, because the open weave softens the split until it barely shows.

Tabi socks are essential, since a normal sock can bunch in the split and blister within an hour, the most common first-wear complaint. The shoes also run narrow, and the toe separation makes half sizes matter more than usual. Ballet flats in this construction have little cushioning, so I treat them as short-distance shoes despite the lack of heel. Patent creases at the toe split, and the crease catches light permanently. I would start with the leather ballerina and tabi socks, and save the patent pair for evenings. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Maison Margiela Tabi Dupe and Best Flats For Women.