Sweet perfumes are having a moment because they can feel plush without reading as one-note dessert. The most interesting gourmands balance a sugary note with woods, spice or a floral edge, so the scent has room to change on skin.

One direction is warm, barrel-aged depth: cinnamon and tonka can feel cozy, while bergamot, pineapple and cardamom keep the opening bright. A coffee note laced with Caribbean rum gives the profile a darker edge. If I want that coffee contrast, I look for a bitter opening, then a soft, warm dry-down: boozy, spiced and a little theatrical.

I like a gourmand that has its own shape, not just sweetness. Think of a spirit note, a spice and a soft finish, balanced with woods or citrus.

For a cold October dinner, I would reach for Vanilla Bourbon from NEST New York, or Langston from Harlem Perfume Co., with its orange brandy and spiked cinnamon. Cognac Reign from D.S. & Durga is the drier, woodier choice with limousine oak. Check Please from MIND GAMES brings apple and cinnamon bark for a crisp, spiced direction. Test any of them on skin and wait for the base before you decide.

Orange blossom, vanilla and marshmallow can give sweet perfumes a soft floral contrast. The best versions keep the sugar from feeling flat by pairing it with a white flower, citrus or musk.

Yum Boujee Marshmallow 81 from Kayali goes pink and fluffy, with strawberry and whipped vanilla. Black Opium Glitter from Yves Saint Laurent pairs a marshmallow musk accord with coffee, so it leans darker. For the flower side, Marrakesh in a Bottle Orange Blossom 24 is orange blossom with Turkish rose and cedarwood, and Libre Intense adds lavender and warm vanilla. Your Devotion Intense from Dolce&Gabbana puts orange blossom with vanilla milk and melon, and Le Parfum from Chloé is orange blossom, rose and tonka vanille. Milk from Commodity is the quiet minimalist one.

Harper's Bazaar quotes master perfumer Carlos Benaïm on keeping a sweet scent from tipping over: counter it with woody, powdery, musky and spicy notes. That is my fitting-room test. Spray it, walk around for an hour, and see whether the sweetness settles into something with edges.

What I would skip: the jammy strawberry one, Strawberry Jam from The 7 Virtues, if you want the flower in front. It is a lovely scent, but it is fruit first.

A bitter coffee note with warm rum, sugar cane and creamy woods makes for a rich, evening-ready perfume. I look for a balance between the roasted note and a base that sweetens slowly. Rum alone can read like a cocktail, while coffee alone can feel like a cafe.

Casino from Brown Girl Jane is espresso affogato and golden rum cake with almond foam, with a bittersweet almond edge. Drunk Maple from BORNTOSTANDOUT pairs maple syrup and aged rum with coffee resinoid, vanilla and sandalwood. Amore Cafe from Mancera Paris goes cafe noir with amaretto and speculoos. Intense Cafe from Montale puts coffee with rose and white musk, and Vanilla Era from Boy Smells is the softer, creamier take with espresso at the base. Dark Rum from Malin+Goetz is spicy bay rum, drier and less sweet than the rest.

Allure's fall fragrance report points to scents that are dry and a little boozy, with coffee paired with woods, spices and resins. Wear these in cooler air, one or two sprays, with a black knit and a wool coat.

What I would skip: Cola Addict and Latte + Nectar if you want a rum and coffee base. One is sparkling cola, the other is bright iced macchiato with orange blossom, and both are fun without being the dark one.

Mists are an easy way to wear sweet notes more lightly, because they sit closer and fade sooner. For a soft gourmand mist, I look for caramel, almond or praline in the base, not just fruit on top.

Amande Creme Brulee from L'Occitane is a lovely praline direction, with roasted almond, vanilla milk and praline. Caramel Skin from Phlur swirls spun caramel, brown sugar and vanilla, and Heavy Cream from Phlur goes milky with citrus and light florals. Marshmallows from Ellis Brooklyn is marshmallow with a caramel accord and milky musk. Mochi Milk from Emi Jay adds sweet rice milk to marshmallow and vanilla bean. Berry Kiss from LoveShackFancy is berries, marshmallow and cashmere, and Orange Blossom Neroli from Glossier is the airy flower option.

The practical test: spray once on a wrist and once on a sleeve, then wait. Mists are made for hair and body, so the sleeve shows you how the scent lingers on fabric, and the wrist shows how it warms. Layering a mist over a heavier perfume is also a good way to stretch a favorite.

What I would skip: St. Barts from OUAI, with dragon fruit and tuberose, if sugar is what you are after. It is a vacation scent, bright and tropical.

Travel sprays make it easy to carry a favorite scent through the day. I looked for compact sizes with a gourmand or orange blossom profile, from creamy vanilla to a brighter floral.

Caramel Milk 22 from Kayali is caramel milk, white chocolate and salted caramel in a spray under half an ounce. Milk from Commodity is a personal-size marshmallow and skin musk. My Way Intense from Armani Beauty puts orange blossom with tuberose and vanilla, and Her Intense from Burberry pairs wild strawberry and orange blossom over ambery wood. Honey Moon from Phlur adds manuka honey and saffron over tonka, and Vanilla Skin Travel Size from Phlur is creamy vanilla with pink pepper. Chocolate Greedy from Montale is chocolate, orange and vanilla bean in a larger 20 mL spray. Solar Drip from Boy Smells is the sunny one.

A good fitting-room test is the sprayer itself. Press it twice before you leave: the mist should come out fine and even, and the cap should click shut. Drop it in your bag with a lip balm, not loose with keys.

What I would skip: Solar Drip, if you want a boozy evening scent. It is fresh and bright, better for a daytime carry.

I would start with one from the cognac corner, because the base tells you the most. Then I would try a coffee and rum scent in cold weather, and a mist for days when a full spray feels like too much.

Sample on skin, give it an hour, and check the dry-down rather than the opening. A spirit note, a spice and a sweet finish can make a gourmand feel warm and distinctive, especially when woods or citrus add contrast.

Somewhere in a cellar, a little cognac is still drifting up through the oak. I would like my own perfume to leave a faint trail too. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Smoky Perfumes for Sweater Weather and Perfume Samples.