The Brown Smoky Eye, Done Softly

In ancient Egypt, men and women lined their eyes with kohl, a dark powder, and the smoky eye has been around in one form or another ever since. Black is the classic version, but a brown smoky eye is the one most people actually wear. It gives the same depth and shape without looking heavy, and it works from a morning meeting to a late dinner. In fall, with camel coats and chocolate knits, brown on the lids just looks right.

The first row is brown eyeshadow palettes. Dose of Colors Baked Browns is full of warm, easy browns. Natasha Denona Tan is a sophisticated mix of mattes and shimmers. Bobbi Brown All Nudes is quiet and wearable, true to the brand's natural look. tarte Tartelette Toasted is warm and toasty. Sisley-Paris Phyto-Eye Palette in Tender Toffee is a small quad that feels simple to use. ILIA The Necessary Eyeshadow Palette in Warm Nude is soft and pared back. MAKEUP BY MARIO Master Mattes The Neutrals has the best transition shades here, and Viseart Praline Etendu is a compact, warm edit of browns.

A quick test: sweep a medium matte brown into your crease and look in daylight. If it looks like a shadow rather than a stripe, the shade is right.

A brown eyeliner is the heart of a soft smoky eye. Pressed into the lash line and smudged out, it adds shape without the drama of black.

Glossier No 1. Pencil in Frame is a creamy neutral brown that blends easily. ILIA Thru Line in Gesture is a waterproof matte warm brown. MAC Kajal Excess in Bark is a warm dark brown kajal made for smoking out. Westman Atelier Eye Love You in Khôl Brun has an intense matte finish that glides without tugging. TOM FORD Gel Eyeliner Pencil in Cocoa is creamy and blendable. Kosas Soulgazer in Allure is a clean, retractable dark brown gel. Lancôme Drama Liqui-Pencil in 02 French Chocolate is a long-wearing matte brown, and PAT McGRATH LABS PermaGel in Black Coffee is the deepest brown in the row.

Pairing tip: line the upper lash line, then smudge it upward with a small brush before it sets. Press a matching brown shadow on top to lock it in.

What I would skip: a sharp winged liner with a smoky eye. The two looks fight each other. Keep the edges soft and blurred, which is the whole point of the look.

Brown mascara finishes a soft smoky eye without the harsh contrast of black. It is especially flattering on fair hair and light eyes, but it works on everyone.

Westman Atelier Eye Want You in Le Brun Clean is transfer-proof and flake-free. Glossier Lash Slick in Brown is a tubing mascara for long, natural lashes. Hourglass Unlocked in Espresso is a rich brown tubing formula. Prada Pradascope in B03 Mahogany is a deep brown with red undertones that brightens green and hazel eyes. Tower 28 MakeWaves in Drift is an espresso brown that holds a curl. ILIA Limitless Lash in Before Dawn is safe for sensitive eyes. Too Faced Ribbon Wrapped Lash in Chocolate lifts and lengthens, and Victoria Beckham Beauty Future Lash in Cocoa gives flexible volume.

How to use them: wiggle the wand at the root, then pull it through to the tips. Two thin coats look better than one thick one.

What I would skip: brown mascara on very dark lashes if you want a dramatic look. It can look faded. Save it for a softer day, or use black on top and brown on bottom.

Start with a medium matte brown in the crease. Line the upper lash line with a brown pencil and smudge it out. Press a darker brown over the liner, then add a little shimmer in the center of the lid. Finish with brown mascara. That is the whole look, and it takes five minutes. A brown smoky eye is the most forgiving way to wear eyeshadow, since smudges only make it look better. Keep the lips and cheeks soft so the eyes stay the focus, and it will carry you all season. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Smoky Perfumes for Sweater Weather.