Fall shopping used to start with a coat and end with a coat. This year it starts with a shoe and a bag, because the silhouette everyone is chasing is built from the ground up rather than layered on top. What follows is the order people are actually buying in.
The Fall Buy Everyone Is Making First

Shoes
The shoe is doing the heavy lifting this season. After a long stretch of sneakers-with-everything, the mood has swung back to something with a shape to it, and the shape is either very square or very pointed with almost nothing in between.

Eleftheria beaded sandals
Ancient Greek Sandals

Ballet canvas ballet flats
Balenciaga

Jelly Drop TPU mules
Jimmy Choo

Swimming Cool patent leather thong sandals
Chloé

VLogo leather ballet flats
Valentino Garavani

Victoria satin pumps
Victoria Beckham

1998 Leo satin sandals
Jimmy Choo

Farris suede sandals
Jimmy Choo

Pebble Soft leather mules
Loewe

Suede-trimmed fishnet ballet flats
Alaïa

Sweet Surrender suede mules
Aquazzura

Very Colibrì leather slingback pumps
Fendi

Raffia platform mules
Dolce&Gabbana

Tyre leather-trimmed sandals
Miu Miu

Renée mesh and leather mules
Saint Laurent

Helena Horsebit leather pumps
Gucci

Suede slingback pumps
Prada

Soft leather loafers
The Row

Flora Mystica embellished sandals
Aquazzura

Helix leather thong sandals
Christen
More Shoes
Heel heights have split too. There is a real revival of the low, sturdy, walkable option alongside the kind of heel that only makes sense if someone else is driving.

Lusaka leather thong sandals
Amanu

Leather thong sandals
Toteme

Tennis metallic leather sneakers
Jacquemus

Victoria leather wedge mules
Le Monde Béryl

Wonderweb VLogo leather slides
Valentino Garavani

City leather thong sandals
The Row

Lova beaded leather sandals
Jimmy Choo

Sliced Square leather ballet flats
Givenchy

Castello calf hair mules
Gucci

Leather wedge thong sandals
Gianvito Rossi

Tabi leather mules
Maison Margiela

Embellished leather sandals
Chloé

Sliced Square 95 leather sandals
Givenchy

Boden raffia slingback sandals
Khaite

Charlotte Intrecciato leather ballet flats
Bottega Veneta

Vittoria embellished satin thong sandals
Amina Muaddi

Tabi leather ballet flats
Maison Margiela

Cœur Royal leather espadrille wedges
Valentino Garavani

Fiosa appliqué leather thong sandals
Manolo Blahnik

Palazzo Intrecciato suede loafers
Bottega Veneta
Bags
Bags went quiet for two years and are now getting loud again in a specific way: bigger, structured, and unapologetically visible. The tiny bag era is over and nobody seems to be mourning it.

Karla beaded top-handle bag
Staud

Zambia Mini satin top-handle bag
Amanu

Leather-trimmed raffia and paper bucket bag
Toteme

Turismo Small raffia-effect bowling bag
Jacquemus

Mellow Small striped crossbody bag
Brunello Cucinelli

VLogo Mini leather top-handle bag
Valentino Garavani

Andiamo Intrecciato leather phone pouch
Bottega Veneta

Belgravia leather-trimmed wicker vanity bag
Aquazzura

Scarf Mini leather shoulder bag
Loewe

Cala Small embroidered top-handle bag
Loewe

Bracelet Small suede top-handle bag
Chloé

Emma Mini leather shoulder bag
Khaite

Le City Medium leather top-handle bag
Balenciaga

Paparazzo Medium leather tote bag
Gucci

Veneta Medium leather shoulder bag
Bottega Veneta

Sicily Medium embellished top-handle bag
Dolce&Gabbana
More Bags
The other direction is the soft, slouchy, half-empty carryall that reads as if the owner has somewhere better to be. Both are reactions to the same thing, which is the fatigue of carrying a bag that fits one lipstick.

x Dragon Diffusion Amoria shoulder bag
Rixo

Rond Carré Small raffia-effect clutch
Jacquemus

Spiaggia Small crochet top-handle bag
Jacquemus

Lotus Mini raffia tote bag
Khaite

Kye suede and leather shoulder bag
Khaite

Chloé Clover leather-trimmed canvas tote bag
Chloé

Loretta raffia tote bag
The Row

Artiste Medium raffia tote bag
Aquazzura

Le City Small canvas top-handle bag
Balenciaga

Dustbag Intrecciato Small suede pouch
Bottega Veneta

Dalia leather shoulder bag
The Row

Le City Medium suede top-handle bag
Balenciaga

Blake leather clutch
Khaite

Rodeo Medium leather shoulder bag
Balenciaga

Paula's Ibiza Puzzle Small top-handle bag
Loewe

Baguette® 26424 Small embroidered shoulder bag
Fendi
Outerwear
Outerwear is where the season announces itself. The shift this year is toward volume that hangs rather than volume that puffs, which is why so much of this reads borrowed rather than bought.

Francois cotton-blend jacket
Nour Hammour

Scarf-detail cotton jacket
Toteme

Technical jacket
Acne Studios

Cashmere and silk sweater vest
Loro Piana

Leather bomber jacket
Róhe

Park suede jacket
Nour Hammour

Cashmere sweater vest
Miu Miu

Passage suede jacket
Nour Hammour

Beck leather bomber jacket
Nour Hammour

Double-breasted wool blazer
Gucci

Re-Nylon track jacket
Prada

Pinstripe wool blazer
Gucci

Suede blazer
Toteme

Hypnotic shearling jacket
Zimmermann

Spagna linen jacket
Loro Piana

Cocoon cotton twill trench coat
Balenciaga

Cutout wool blazer
Givenchy

Leather jacket
Miu Miu

Cable-knit shearling-trimmed cardigan
Saint Laurent

Asymmetric wool coat
Alaïa

Leather bomber jacket
Saint Laurent

GG shearling-trimmed leather jacket
Gucci

Oversized leather bomber jacket
Saint Laurent

Oversized suede jacket
Miu Miu
Tops
Underneath, the top has become the interesting layer rather than the forgettable one. Sheerness, ribbing and an actual neckline are doing what a statement necklace used to do.

Tabitha embroidered top
Posse

Gingham cotton-blend top
Simkhai

Sina floral top
Cala de la Cruz

Zauma beaded printed top
Cala de la Cruz

Viviane lace-trimmed silk satin top
Dôen

Draped cotton-blend top
Róhe

Striped oversized cotton polo shirt
Róhe

Oversized cotton and linen shirt
Toteme

Solstice polka-dot cotton top
Zimmermann

Logo cotton jersey top
Balenciaga

Anagram cotton-blend T-shirt
Loewe

Layered cotton-blend piqué polo shirt
Acne Studios

Angoli jersey satin crop top
Pucci

Vivara silk twill halterneck top
Pucci

Majolica printed crop top
Dolce&Gabbana

Orchidee halterneck silk twill top
Pucci

Cutout cropped cotton poplin shirt
Miu Miu

Cassandre pinstripe cotton shirt
Saint Laurent

Double L striped cotton poplin shirt
Loewe

Layered cotton jersey T-shirt
Miu Miu

Leopard-print cotton crop top
Dolce&Gabbana

Memento ruffled silk blouse
Zimmermann

Cotton shirt
Bottega Veneta

Floral cropped cotton-blend shirt
Valentino
Jewelry
Jewelry is the clearest read on where taste is right now. Gold is back to being warm and slightly heavy, and the internet has collectively decided that one substantial piece beats a stack of thin ones.

Ovalette Swarovski®-embellished ring
Valentino

Atomic embellished earrings
Alémais

Birth of Venus gold-plated pendant necklace
Ysso

Poisson earrings
Jacquemus

Eros 24kt gold-plated earrings
Ysso

Postcards embellished bracelet
Chloé

Chloé Sculpt cuff bracelet
Chloé

Cœur Royal enamel pendant necklace
Valentino Garavani

DG embellished bangle
Dolce&Gabbana

Château Treasures chain necklace
Chloé

Horsebit bracelet
Gucci

Cassandre faux pearl clip-on earrings
Saint Laurent

Puffy Icon Wallpaper Small 14kt gold earrings
Sydney Evan

14kt gold earrings
Stone and Strand

DY Mercer® 18kt gold and sterling silver ring with gemstones
David Yurman

Alliance Coccinelle Scarabée Mini 9kt gold and enamel ring with diamonds
Yvonne Léon

Hidden Gem 18kt gold huggie earrings with diamonds
Octavia Elizabeth

Eos Hug 18kt gold ring
Pamela Zamore

Clover Smash 18kt gold and leather locket necklace with emeralds
Marie Lichtenberg

Beaded necklace with gemstones
Ileana Makri

DY Mercer® 18kt gold ring with gemstones
David Yurman

Legacy Knot Big 18kt gold necklace
Engelbert

Chakra Icon 18kt gold bracelet with diamonds and quartz
Ananya

Nesting Gem 18kt gold drop earrings with diamonds
Octavia Elizabeth
Trousers and shorts
Trousers have relaxed at the waist and narrowed at the ankle, or given up on the ankle entirely. Either way the line is longer than it was, which changes what shoe works underneath.

Kyoto cotton barrel-leg pants
Leset

Gingham cotton-blend shorts
Simkhai

Tabitha embroidered balloon pants
Posse

Cotton and linen wide-leg pants
Toteme

Toya printed wide-leg pants
Cala de la Cruz

High-rise capri pants
Róhe

Crochet striped cotton-blend shorts
Etro

Cotton-blend wide-leg pants
JW Anderson

Roma cotton poplin wide-leg pants
Khaite

Hypnotic layered lace barrel-leg pants
Zimmermann

Orchidee scalloped cotton shorts
Pucci

Wool wide-leg pants
Gucci

Mita virgin wool straight pants
Khaite

Majolica printed shorts
Dolce&Gabbana

Prince of Wales check wool Bermuda shorts
Bottega Veneta

Silk twill wide-leg pants
Phoebe Philo

Re-Nylon shorts
Prada

Cotton gabardine Bermuda shorts
Prada

Cutout wool wide-leg pants
Givenchy

Emon silk Bermuda shorts
Loro Piana
Dresses
The dress is no longer the default answer to an occasion, so the ones still selling have to earn it. These do, mostly by being cut with some tension rather than just draping politely.

Safia cotton poplin maxi dress
Dôen

Estela lace-trimmed georgette maxi dress
De La Vali

Leopard-print mesh gown
Alex Perry

Striped cotton-blend maxi dress
Etro

Orchidee silk twill maxi dress
Pucci

Double L cotton poplin shirt dress
Loewe

Gathered one-shoulder maxi dress
Missoni

Cassandre chain-detail maxi dress
Saint Laurent

Memento ruffled silk gown
Zimmermann

Memento Burnout paisley semi-sheer gown
Zimmermann

Bow-detail striped midi dress
Prada

Caped crêpe gown
Carolina Herrera

Memento lace midi dress
Zimmermann

Floral ruched jersey maxi dress
Alaïa

Lace-trimmed floral silk-blend maxi dress
Dolce&Gabbana

Floral silk crêpe organza bustier gown
Carolina Herrera
Knitwear
Knitwear is where the money quietly goes. It is the category people replace least often and notice most, and the current preference is for something with structure rather than something that clings.

Knitted halterneck cotton top
Róhe

Cotton sweater
Toteme

King's Road cashmere polo sweater
Arch4

Knitted striped cotton-blend crop top
Etro

Knitted wool capri pants
Magda Butrym

Virgin wool turtleneck sweater
Loro Piana

Igor cotton and cashmere wide-leg pants
The Row

Ligeia cashmere sweater
The Row

Luka cotton and cashmere shirt
The Row

Wool and cashmere top
Prada

Lizzy cashmere turtleneck sweater
The Row

Cherry Hill cashmere and wool sweater
Loro Piana

North Woods oversized wool-blend sweater
Loro Piana

Striped cotton zip-up sweatshirt
Miu Miu

Logo cashmere and silk top
Miu Miu

Cherry Hill mohair and cashmere cardigan
Loro Piana
Denim
Denim keeps drifting looser and darker. The indigo wash is having a moment again after several years of everything being washed to within an inch of its life.
Skirts
Skirts are long or they are not happening. The midi settled the argument and the knee-length option has been retired for now.

Elowette lace-trimmed silk satin slip skirt
Dôen

Leopard-print cotton midi skirt
Dolce&Gabbana

Angoli twill wrap skirt
Pucci

Mohair and wool-blend midi skirt
Alaïa

Wool-blend midi skirt
Givenchy

Hypnotic silk organza maxi skirt
Zimmermann

Pleated midi skirt
Alaïa

Floral cotton-blend midi skirt
Valentino
Also in the edit
A few things that do not sit neatly in a category but do sit neatly in a wardrobe. This is usually where the most-worn item of the season is hiding.

Silk satin minidress
Saint Laurent

Hypnotic floral-appliqué minidress
Zimmermann

Herringbone virgin wool miniskirt
Prada

Ricci floral miniskirt
Cala de la Cruz

Veneta printed linen minidress
Cala de la Cruz

Ivy crochet striped shopper
Miu Miu

Orchidee cotton-blend terry minidress
Pucci

Sliced Square patent leather ankle boots
Givenchy

Leather mid-calf boots
Prada

Cropped shearling jacket
Alaïa

Gustaf cashmere coat
The Row

Belted leather jacket
Saint Laurent

Lace-trimmed silk georgette blouse
Chloé

Irina wool and silk T-shirt
Loro Piana

Groove 18kt gold pendant necklace with diamonds
Messika

Groove 18kt gold drop earrings with diamonds
Messika

High-rise leather barrel-leg pants
Givenchy

Asymmetric bow-detail georgette maxi dress
Alaïa

Cutout ruffled jersey gown
Alaïa

La Plagne cashmere sweater
Loro Piana

Straight jeans
Chloé

Denim minidress
Prada

Coated straight jeans
Gucci

Low-rise leather midi skirt
Alaïa
More from the edit
The through-line is that people are buying fewer, firmer, more recognisable shapes and skipping the filler. It is less about a new look and more about being decisive, which is a mood shift as much as a fashion one.
Our honest take
Our honest take: the season has no single silhouette, and that is the interesting part. What it has instead is a consensus on confidence, where a shoe with a real shape and a bag you can see across a room do more work than an entire new wardrobe.
Shop brands in this edit
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