On October 1, 1926, Vogue ran a sketch of a black, long sleeved crepe de chine dress by Chanel and captioned it "The Chanel 'Ford'", the frock the world would wear. The comparison to the Model T was the point. A dress could be a whole outfit, the same every day, and still look like a decision. That is still why I reach for a dress in the fall. One piece, a coat and a boot, and I am dressed.

 

The knit dress is the hardest working version, so I start there. Self-portrait's Pointelle Peplum is burgundy with a fitted top and a flared hem, and retrofete's Runa is a black halter knit for the evening. Sid Neigum's Lace Triple Loop is a white open knit, more of a piece to layer over a slip. Sandy Liang's Tumi is a short sleeved patterned sweater dress, and Fear of God Essentials' rib knit is a long olive column. Veronica Beard's Elthea has a belt at the waist, Staud's Ellison is a patterned compact knit with a square neck, and Simkhai's Kenlie is pale pink with a dropped waist.

 

Four more knits sit in the same grid. AMUR's Freya is a pleated olive knit midi, Veronica Beard's Salomez is a ribbed knit with a twisted front, De Loreta's Valeria is a burgundy knit that drops off the shoulder, and GANNI's Ribbed Merino Zip dress is a green knit with a zip at the neck.

 

My test with a knit dress: sit down for five minutes, then stand up. If the knit has bagged at the seat or the elbows, it will look tired by lunchtime.

 

What I would skip: a pale, fine knit like the Kenlie under a wool coat that sheds. You will spend the day picking fibres off it.

Jersey and long sleeves are the next step, where the dress feels closest to that 1926 Chanel sketch.

 

Proenza Schouler's Imogen is black soft jersey with a turtleneck and ruching at the side, the plainest and most understated dress here, and Faherty's Throwback is a charcoal ribbed sweater dress with a collar, the one for a Saturday. Ronny Kobo's Sera is slinky blackberry jersey with a mock neck and an asymmetric ruched skirt, a dress for an evening that starts at six. SABLYN's Monique is a short sleeved brown mock neck, and SAME's Shimmer Mockneck is rust with a little shine. Pucci's long sleeve dress is the print, sheer and swirled. Norma Kamali's Deep V ruffle mini is the short one, and Enza Costa's Supima dolman is the everyday black mini I would wear with tights all winter.

 

A few more long sleeves round out the grid. Ulla Johnson's Solene is a jersey dress with a ruched shoulder and her Ida is a printed jersey midi, Theory's Crew Neck Knit Dress is the plain black column, and Ronny Kobo's Morwen is a burgundy long sleeve mini for tights.

 

A pairing tip: a jersey dress takes a belt well. A thin leather belt at the natural waist turns a column into a shape, and you can take it off at night.

 

What I would skip: thin jersey with an underwire bra. Choose a smooth, seamless one or the lines show.

The third group borrows from menswear and daywear: shirt dresses, denim, plaid and a cape.

 

Veronica Beard's Bandera is a seamed denim shirt dress with button cuffs, the most casual, and Free People's Marris is the playful one, a pleated denim mini with fading at the seams. Toteme's Slouch Jersey shirt dress is sage and relaxed, and Fleur du Mal's Short Sleeve Blazer dress is ivory and double-breasted with a shawl collar, sharp enough for an office. Ulla Johnson's Elysia is white cotton voile with pintucks and lace trim. Enza Costa's Japanese Plaid scarf dress brings a check, Cara Cara's Walter is a snake print denim shirtdress with a self belt, and Loulou de Saison's Izia is a navy draped cape dress, the most unusual shape in this group.

 

A pairing tip: a shirt dress wants a heavier shoe in the fall, a loafer or a lug sole boot, and a knit thrown over the shoulders when it gets cold.

 

What I would skip: a white shirt dress on a day you are carrying a dark leather bag against your hip. Denim and dyed leather can rub off on white cotton.

The last group is the dressier half: drape, lace and dresses that are the whole event.

 

Zimmermann's Draped Maxi is brown and soft, and Alejandra Alonso Rojas' Long Sleeve Draped Jersey dress is pale blue with a crossover neckline. Norma Kamali's Sleeveless Low Back Drape Gown is black satin with a cowl neck, the one for black tie, and Black Halo's Egan is a one-shoulder gown in stretch neoprene with a short puff sleeve. Theory's Drape Parachute dress comes in umber, a warm brown for October, and SIMKHAI's Burke is a draped plaid midi with a cowl neck and a front slit. For lace, Self-Portrait's Spiral Lace Midi is navy, SIR.'s Aylu is a black maxi with long sleeves and lace at the neckline, and Tanya Taylor's Violeta has floral lace along an asymmetric hem.

 

Further down the grid, A.L.C.'s Miriam is teal with a draped asymmetric hem, Cinq à Sept's Sienne is a gold satin slip with black lace at the hem, and Reformation's Jessalyn is a plum silk dress.

 

A pairing tip: drape needs a clean shoe and very little jewellery. One cuff or one pair of earrings is enough.

 

What I would skip: a long draped dress with a heavy crossbody bag. The strap pulls the drape in a direction it was not cut for.

The fall dress is doing more work because it is one decision instead of three. Vogue saw that in a black Chanel dress almost a hundred years ago, and it still holds.

 

If I were buying one, I would choose a long sleeve jersey or knit dress in a dark colour, Proenza Schouler's black jersey Imogen, or Enza Costa's black dolman if I wanted something simpler, because it goes with a boot, a loafer and a heel and works from September to March. The shirt dresses are the best for an office, and the draped pieces are the ones for evenings when you want the dress to be the whole story.

 

Whatever you choose, try it with the coat you will wear over it. A fall dress has to work under a coat as much as on its own. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together The Silk Dress Is Doing Quiet Work In A Loud Season and The Scarf Is Doing More Work Than Your Jacket This Year.