A Ganni trench coat is a set of details rather than a shape: storm flap, epaulettes, belt, back yoke, double row of buttons. What Ganni does is keep the details and swap everything else, so the same pattern shows up in laminated canvas, in wool and in plain cotton. Laminating the canvas changes the drape completely, turning a soft coat into one that holds its own volume. The original was British military kit from the First World War, adopted by civilians because it was better made than anything sold to them. Treating that as raw material rather than sacred text is the whole Copenhagen position on classic menswear.

The wool trench carries into real cold, which a cotton gabardine cannot. The double cotton version stays lighter but has enough body to hold the belt and the collar up.

Away from the trench, the rest of the outerwear is where the label stops being polite. A structured denim jacket cut fitted is the opposite instinct to the oversized denim of the last five years, and it reads sharper for it. Long pile faux fur is doing the job a shearling used to do, with none of the weight and a much stronger silhouette. Nylon shows up twice, once as a parka and once as a cropped puffer, which covers both ends of a Northern European winter. None of it is trying to be a coat you keep forever, and the honesty about that is refreshing.

When a trench stops being practical, the nylon parka takes over with a hood and a longer hem. The mini puffer is the short, warm option for dry cold days.

Ganni is better at colour and material than at construction, and the trench coat is where that tradeoff is most visible. Buy it because the shade is one nobody else is making, not because it will outlive a British heritage version. Size up if you plan to wear a knit under it, because the shoulders are cut closer than the volume suggests. The cotton one is the most useful across a year and the laminated canvas is the one people will stop you about. Pick according to which of those two things you want from a coat.