The Pieces That Got Away

The Luggage tote arrived in 2010 under Phoebe Philo, and its smiling, winged shape became shorthand for her Céline. Philo was creative director from 2008 to 2017, and the Luggage in its Micro, Nano and Mini sizes is the clearest piece of that run.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Céline Grey Drummed Calfskin Luggage Micro, the Céline Yellow Leather Luggage Micro and the Miu Miu Black Nappa Crystal Flap Shoulder Bag.

 

Look at the drummed calfskin and the leather colors below. I would pick yellow or orange to wear with all black. For more Philo-era thinking, The Fashion Insider's Archive is the companion piece.

Chanel's seasonal Paris bags come from the annual Métiers d'Art shows, each staged in a different city and named for it. Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Chanel White Quilted Lambskin Hula Hoop Bag XL, the Chanel Paris-Salzburg White Shearling Austrian Messenger and the Chanel Metallic Silver Leather Coco Milk Carton Bag.

 

More of these collectible Chanel pieces appear in A Collector's State of Mind. I like that each bag tells you where and when it was shown.

Runway accessories are the pieces that appeared in a collection and then quietly vanished. Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Christian Dior White Python Rebelle Hobo, the Christian Dior Brown Ponyhair Malice Shoulder Bag and the Christian Dior Multicolor Rasta Saddle Bag.

 

These are the ones I would look for if you want something nobody else is carrying.

Dior and Fendi both kept making bags that feel almost impossible to find now. The Street Chic and Malice from Dior and the fur and pony hair Fendi pieces come from collections that celebrated texture.

 

Among the eight in this grid, I would look first at the Christian Dior Brown Canvas Trotter Street Chic Boston, the Fendi Cream Knit Baguette and the Fendi Metallic Beige Crochet Baguette.

 

The Fendi Archive has more.

Begin with the piece you would regret not buying. A collector's rule I like is to choose one you will actually carry, not one that will sit in a box.

 

Begin with the piece you would regret not buying. A collector's rule I like is to choose one you will actually carry, not one that will sit in a box, then check the hardware and the lining against the listing photos. These bags were made to be used, and they look best that way. For more, try The Art of Vintage Dior.