Polished penny loafers bring together a familiar shape and a dressier finish. A clean keeper across the vamp, gathered moc-toe stitching and a glossy upper give the profile a sharper feel, while black and deep red keep the styling easy. This edit gathers pairs with those details in different finishes and sole heights.

Start with patent, because it is the quickest read of the look. I would reach for the East Village loafer in black patent, with its penny keeper and low stacked heel, or the Astor from Coach, a smooth black leather penny loafer. The Tyche has a gathered moc toe with visible hand-stitching. The Ellowyn in crinkle patent and the Mazle from Marc Fisher LTD, a crinkled black patent slip-on with a gathered moc toe, bring a little texture. For an October workday I would wear any of them with black tights and a trench. In the shop, tilt the shoe under a light: patent should look even and glassy, with no cloudy patches near the toe crease.

Lug soles give classic penny loafers a sharper, more substantial profile. A thin sole feels delicate; a lugged one adds weight and makes the shoe stand out. The sole matters as much as the upper when choosing the overall feel.

The Maibel 3 from Nine West pairs black patent with a lugged platform and block heel, and the Leah from Coach is black patent with a tonal logo plate on a chunky lug sole. The Penny Lug from Veronica Beard has a high-shine embossed leather upper, which is a fun way to get gloss without patent. The Treena from Cole Haan has a lugged, flexible outsole, and the Siena from Vince adds moc-toe stitching on a chunky lug. The Gen-FF Roam from FitFlop is smooth black leather on a thick platform, and the Lindie from ALDO adds a slim metal accent.

The test I would run is a bend test. Elle quotes podiatrist Anna Baird: It is important to make sure that the loafer is not flimsy and only bends through the forefoot, or where your foot bends when you walk. A chunky sole should flex where your foot does, and the back of the shoe should hold its shape. Press the heel counter with your thumb before you commit.

Wear these with cuffed denim and a thick knit in October, or with a slip skirt and ribbed socks.

What I would skip: a lug sole so tall it makes the shoe heavy when you walk to the door and back. Heft is the point, but not so much that it spoils the stride.

Gloss gives a loafer a clean, dressed-up finish. Smooth leather and patent both work, depending on how much shine you want. Polished leather softens with wear, while patent has a sharper reflection, so both finishes belong in a fall wardrobe.

The Temara from Dr. Martens is polished smooth leather with a tapered round toe, and the Hudson Lite from Stuart Weitzman is a high-gloss patent with a lug sole. The Geneva from Cole Haan is polished box calf on a low lug outsole, which is the one I would wear to the office. Tory Burch's Classic Penny has a gold-tone keeper, and the Marli from Lauren Ralph Lauren has a small gold crest. For the chunkier end, the Lea from Sam Edelman has gold bit hardware on a platform, and the Sharon Pace from Clarks sits on a ridged, wedge-style platform.

Check the hardware. Look for a polished keeper that sits flat, with a clean edge and a finish that matches across both shoes. Then check the toe: a good gathered or stitched moc toe has even stitches.

What I would skip: a gloss so bright it looks wet under office lights. A softer glaze is easier to wear from a desk to dinner.

Red and burgundy feel especially right for fall. A deep red loafer works with the familiar ease of a black pair, while giving a dark coat and gray trousers something to talk about.

The East Village comes in a bright red patent with a tan welt, which is the loud option. Dr. Martens makes the Temara in a glossy cherry red, and the Calvin Klein Otinya is a dark red patent on a chunky black sole. For the deeper end, the Lea from Sam Edelman is dark merlot with gold bit hardware, the Cassandra from Franco Sarto is a glossy oxblood with a penny keeper on a lugged sole, and the Korrie from Anne Klein is bordeaux patent with a gold chain bit on a low heel. The Broome Grand from Cole Haan is burgundy brushed leather on a lug sole, and the Hudson Lite from Stuart Weitzman comes in boysenberry patent.

Here is the check I would make: look at the color in daylight, near a window. Reds can slip toward orange or pink in a showroom. A good one holds a single clear shade across the whole upper, including the toe and the heel. Wear them with navy, camel or gray, and keep the socks quiet. Black tights and a gray wool skirt is my version.

What I would skip: a red that fights your bag. If the bag is brown, go burgundy.

A platform adds an inch or two without a heel, giving the penny shape more presence under wide-leg pants. It is a simple way to add height while keeping the ease of a flat shoe.

The Blake from Kate Spade has a gold-tone plate on a glossy black platform, and the Carolynn from Franco Sarto is black patent with a tassel and a chunky lugged sole. Michael Kors makes the Indy on a thick flatform wedge, and the FitFlop F-Mode is all black leather on a rounded flatform. The Hudson Lite platform from Stuart Weitzman is patent with a lugged sole, the Carrera from Born has sculpted lugs and moc-toe stitching, and the Bree from Forever & Always is navy Italian Nappa suede. Tory Burch's platform lug loafer comes in white patent, which is a good way to wear the shape in a lighter shade.

The test is a walk across the shop floor. A platform should roll through the step, not clunk. Harper's Bazaar is blunt about fit: loafers should fit snug, as they will gradually expand. Vogue says the same about leather loafers, and recommends half sizes when possible. If your heel lifts a little on a first try, a discreet insole or heel grip is an easy fix.

I would wear the black ones with straight-leg jeans, a long coat and thick socks.

What I would skip: a platform with a hard, flat edge if you walk a lot. Rounded edges are kinder.

Begin with the finish you would actually wear most days. If it is patent, go for the East Village or the Astor. If it is polished leather, the Geneva or the Temara. Then choose the sole: slim, lugged or platform. The sole decides how the whole outfit feels.

Next, check the three details that matter: the penny keeper, the toe stitching and the shine. Press the heel, bend the shoe at the ball of the foot, and fit it snug.

Finish with a walk test. Pick the pair that makes you want to put on a coat and walk somewhere. That is the only real test.

If the Saint Laurent loafers appeal to you, I would give these pairs a look too.