Retro runners are having a moment again, and I keep noticing the balance between a low, level sole and a soft, lived-in upper. A little contrast in the materials, like suede against mesh or leather with a touch of wear, makes the shape feel easy rather than overly technical. I like a flat-soled runner with a gum edge or a faded neutral, and a retro running shoe is an easy place to start if you are looking for the shape. Look at classic runner profiles from the side to see how the sole sits.

The appeal is simple: a flat sole, a softened finish, and laces that can be swapped to change the feel. Suede and mesh keep it relaxed, while cream, gray, black and brown make the shoe easy to wear. A retro runner does not have to be pristine to look polished; a gentle, uneven patina can give a new pair some character.

Start the walk with the suede runners, because that is where the silhouette lives. The Terra Manta Suede from Nike is an easy neutral: gray suede, a chocolate swoosh and a gum-brown tread. The New Balance 327 in linen and mushroom has the cream and taupe suede overlays and a wedge sole, and the Merrell Alpine 83 in pigeon pairs pale gray suede with a caramel gum sole. Then the Puma Arizona Retro, white leather with taupe suede and a low-slung gum sole, and the Gola Sprinter in sage, which has a mixed suede and twill upper.

This month I would wear any of these with straight dark jeans, a long camel coat and a thick sock. In the fitting room, check the sole from the side: if it sits close to the ground, the shape reads right.

British Vogue pointed to a wider appetite for slimline trainers, saying a "streamlined side profile and levelled sole" sets them apart from chunkier technical shoes. That is the thread in this group: smooth leather uppers, a low profile and a gum or pale sole, so the shoe looks calm from across a room.

The GREATS Brooklyn in white and light taupe is the quietest of them, soft leather with tonal suede panels and a subtle wedge. The Puma Palermo has the terrace-shoe T-toe construction with gray suede overlays, and the rag & bone Retro Court Sneakers 2.0 add perforated leather, a taupe overlay and a burgundy side stripe. The Gola Eagle '86 and the Reebok Club C 85 Vintage in off-white, with its green heel tab and aged sole, round out the court shapes. The Sans Matin Hera in dusty blue is for the day you want a color that is not white or brown.

The test I would run is the toe box. Press it with your thumb: a good slim leather trainer springs back and does not crease in one hard line. Check that the stitching around the suede overlays is even, because on a flat shoe every seam shows. I would wear these with cropped wool trousers and a navy knit, or with a long skirt and a trench.

What I would skip: a pair with a thick, bright white midsole if you want a low, lived-in profile. It makes the shoe read taller and newer.

For a worn-in effect, the finish matters as much as the silhouette. Softly washed suede and varied scuffing can make a retro sneaker feel relaxed; a little patina looks most convincing when it follows natural creases and edges.

The Diadora Prestige Used in white and blue has a washed, aged finish on a retro tennis shape, with navy laces. The Vintage Havana Step is cognac and cream leather with a shearling-trim panel, and the Nadia in natural and washed gold has suede overlays on a gum sole. The victoria C-80 Leather Urban in cream has a deliberately scuffed look, and the Ash Sunset has richly textured leather on a star-studded cupsole. Free People's Retro Thirty Love is the lighter, color-blocked option.

The fitting-room test is to look at how the aging is done. Hand-distressing should vary across the shoe, a little more at the toe and eyelets and less at the heel. If the scuffing is perfectly even, it looks printed on. I would pair these with a slip skirt and wool tights for October, or with loose gray trousers.

What I would skip: the bright, sparkly accent versions if you want a quiet, bookish feel. Stay with cream, cognac and washed neutrals.

The Puma Suede Classic is a familiar low-top suede sneaker, with a clean profile and a formstrip along the side. Its simple shape shows why a suede low-top works so well with a soft fall palette of camel, coffee and warm white.

I would start with the Puma in haute coffee and warm white, then the Gola Bullet Suede in cameo and mocha, which is a blush pink with brown stripes. The Veronica Beard Valentina in taupe suede and canvas with a gum tread is the most polished, and the Vagabond Cody in camel suede with a shearling collar is the cozy one. The Arezzo Maureen in topo gray has matching laces, and the Tory Burch Hank Field has a soft napa leather lining with a cream stripe. The Naturalizer Cami in black has a classic cupsole and is the easy one for a long day on your feet.

Check the suede with your hand. It should brush flat and darker one way, and a thin, shiny look usually means a coating over a weak nap. A suede protector spray before the first wear helps with October rain. I would wear the mocha and camel pairs with brown corduroy and a cream scarf.

What I would skip: very bright suede if your closet is mostly neutral. The look works because the shoe fades into the outfit.

Platform trainers keep the familiar retro details, like suede, mesh and paneled uppers, while adding height underfoot. They are a good option if you want a little lift but still like a runner-inspired shape.

The New Balance 515H in sea salt has a cream suede and mesh upper and a navy N on a chunky white platform. The adidas Gazelle Bold has a black suede upper on a triple-stacked sole with serrated stripes, and the Cole Haan Originalgrand Max pairs tobacco suede with ivory leather on a fluted sole. The Steve Madden Dodge in taupe has a gum-toned platform, the Sans Matin Gaia is pale gray suede with an embossed stripe, and the UGG Sungazer in dark brown is a chestnut suede with a side zip. The Sorel Ona, with leopard laces, is the playful one.

Test the weight by lifting one shoe: an EVA sole should feel light, since a heavy platform tires you out by lunch. Look at the sole's edge too, and check that the layers are cleanly bonded. I would wear the brown suede pairs with a wool midi skirt and thick socks for weekends in October.

What I would skip: the tallest soles if you prefer a close-to-ground feel. In that case, choose one of the suede runners.

I would begin with the sole. Hold each pair at eye level, and choose the one that sits lowest. Then look at the surface: suede with a little wear, or leather that has been softly aged, matters more than any detail of the laces.

After that I would pick laces. A flat cord or a waxed lace in a slightly different color is a quick way to give a runner a more lived-in feeling. I would start with the Nike Terra Manta or the Puma Suede Classic, because both are easy with jeans.

Pick a pair that looks like it has stories, and you have got the point. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Back 70 Sneakers and ASICS GEL-1130.