Tiffany and Co.: Heart Tags, Bone Cuffs and the 1966 Key Tag Behind Them

Tiffany and Co.: Heart Tags, Bone Cuffs and the 1966 Key Tag Behind Them

Tiffany and Co. began its heart tag story as a 1966 key tag, and this edit sorts heart tags, Elsa Peretti shapes and HardWear, T and Lock pieces, new and pre-owned. I say when I would reach for each one and what to check in the clasp and hallmark.

Tiffany and Co. says the Return to Tiffany story starts in 1966, with a key tag. Each one carried a unique registration number, so that if you and your keys got separated, they would be reunited at the Fifth Avenue flagship. I love that. A lost-and-found label became jewelry.

 

The house itself dates to 1837, when Charles Lewis Tiffany opened a fancy goods and stationery store in New York City. The first jewelry design to use the tag came in 1980, a gold heart pendant on a box chain, and the 1997 silver choker dropped the registry number. That is the part of Tiffany and Co. I find most wearable: small, engraved, a little bit practical, and still very much a New York object.

 

A word on what is here before I go on. The first five pieces are new, and the last three in this group are pre-owned: the heart tag pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold, the sterling silver heart tag necklace and the sterling silver heart tag bracelet. Each is marked with its condition, so read that line first.

 

For everyday, the Mini Heart Tag Pendant in yellow gold is the one I would wear under a white shirt and never take off. The Mini Double Heart Tag Pendant in silver is the same idea with two tags, and the Heart Tag Stud Earrings in mini are the quiet version. The Heart Tag Toggle Bracelet has chunky links and is the one for a plain sweater sleeve. The Tiffany Blue Heart Tag Bead Bracelet is the playful one, good with a gray tee and jeans. Whatever you pick, read the engraving closely under good light.

Collage of heart tag pendants, bracelets and studs, open heart and bone cuff Peretti jewelry, and link bracelets, ball earrings and lock earrings, and a mood photo of a beaded bracelet with a red heart tag on a blue jewelry pouch

Peretti shapes and what to check

Check the hallmark before you check the shine. On sterling silver from this house the stamp should be crisp and evenly struck, and on the pre-owned pieces here I would also look at the clasp and the chain links for wear. A loose clasp is easier to spot than a scratch, and it matters more.

 

Elsa Peretti debuted at Tiffany on September 25, 1974, and the house calls it the beginning of a revolution in jewelry. She is the reason this group feels so relaxed. Her designs, the house says, were meant to be put on and carried off with ease. The Open Heart Pendant, 7 mm, comes in sterling silver and in 18k yellow gold, and either one looks right on a plain crew neck. The Diamonds by the Yard Single Diamond Pendant in silver is one bezel-set stone on a fine chain, the least fussy sparkle I know.

 

The pre-owned pieces are where I would linger. The Bone Cuff in small sterling silver has a contour that fits over the wrist bone, which is the whole point of it, and the vintage large Bone Cuff is the bolder pick over a bare forearm or a blazer sleeve. The Bean Pendant Necklace in 10mm sterling silver and the Open Heart Necklace are easy layers, and the Diamonds by the Yard Necklace in rose gold is the warm one.

 

What I would skip: a cuff that pinches or gapes when you hold your wrist up. Try it on, then raise your arm and see where it lands.

Hinges, links and Ts

Put the clasp and the hinge through their paces. Fasten each piece, then tilt it and listen for rattle. On the bangles and bracelets here, the hinge should close with a firm click, and the lock detail should sit flush against the wrist.

 

Tiffany HardWear is the edgier line, and I like it with soft things. The HardWear Micro Link Bracelet in sterling silver sits well against a thin knit cuff, while the HardWear Ball Earrings in 8 mm silver are the ones I would wear with a ponytail and a trench. The pre-owned HardWear Triple Drop Earrings are the dressier option for a dark outfit at night. The Tiffany T Smile Pendant in small rose gold is for a slip dress or an open collar, and the Tiffany Lock Small Earrings in yellow gold are a tiny, clever pair.

 

Then the pre-owned bracelets. The T Smile Bracelet in yellow gold with diamonds is 6 in long, and the T Wire Bracelet in rose gold is 6.5 in, so measure your wrist before you fall for either one. The wide Lock Bracelet in yellow gold and sterling silver is 5.75 in with a hinge, and it arrives with its box and pouch, which is a good sign. I would look for even wear and check that the diamonds sit straight.

Tiffany T, HardWear and Lock

How I would choose a piece

I would start with the tag, since that is where the story begins, and pick one heart, silver or gold. Wear it for a week before you add anything else, so you know whether you are a pendant person or a bracelet person.

 

Then I would add one Peretti shape I could wear daily, probably the Open Heart or a Bone Cuff. For the pre-owned pieces, I would read the condition line, measure my wrist, and check the clasp. The hallmark and the box and pouch, where included, tell you more than a photo does.

 

A key tag was meant to bring something home. I like jewelry that does the same. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Tiffany Perfume and Bangles or Cuffs.