Matteo Tamburini opened with a good question: how does personal imagery turn into personal style over time. His answer came from the images, films and music he took in as a teenager in the 1990s, the decade when Tod's made its name. "It connects both me and the brand," he said.

What I love is that he refused to tidy it up. Formal loosens and sport gets more considered, and you can feel both pulling at each other in the clothes.

It is a lot of attitude to carry, which is probably why a bag appeared in more than half the looks. With a bag in most outfits, the accessories are clearly not an afterthought, and a bag is the quickest way to let a formal shape sit next to something sportier. That is where I would start.

A driving shoe is the house's most recognizable object, so it makes sense that the Gommino came back across ready-to-wear and accessories, with its perforated polka-dot motif. It is the connective tissue of the show, and the loafer feels like the right place to find it.

Leather is still Tod's real laboratory, and about a third of the looks showed it off. It was cut out, exposed, worked into ultra-light intarsia that mimics fabric, even marbleized on a nubuck coat. I love that it was less about a trick and more about letting leather behave unexpectedly.

A loafer in leopard print or plain suede suits all of that, because it is classic in shape and just a little loose in spirit.

The show was all about movement. Windsilk trousers caught the air, panels shifted, skirts swung, and about a quarter of the looks had a handkerchief or uneven hem that softened as the wearer walked.

Something has to anchor all that swing, and that is where I keep thinking about boots. A suede Chelsea or a knitted leather ankle boot would do it without making the outfit heavy. Shorts also showed up in about one in five looks, and I can see a sturdy boot working beautifully with them.

I think Tamburini keeps Tod's moving, and it gets somewhere while keeping its feet firmly on the ground. I admire that he let the nineties teenager and the grown designer disagree out loud in the same clothes.

I would wear it with a loose skirt, a small suede bag and a flat, grounded boot. Long after the show, what I remember is the idea of formal becoming less formal, losing rigidity, and a shoe that still knows exactly where it is going.