In 1936 George Henry Bass took a slip-on shoe worn by Norwegian farmers and fishermen, refined it, and gave the world the original penny loafer, according to G.H.Bass's own history. A working shoe from a fjord became a campus shoe, then an office shoe, then the thing half of us put on when we cannot decide. I love that.

Tony Bianco loafers sit in that lineage, with an Australian accent. The founder was born in Catanzaro, Italy in 1947, moved to Melbourne with his family in 1958, and started the label in 1972 in a small Hawthorn factory with his wife Michela and five employees. Today his sons Anthony and Adam run it, and the brand says it has worked with the same factory for decades. A family shoemaker that stays with one workshop is a good sign to me.

The first set is all leather. The Libby in black vintage leather and the Gomez in vanilla Venice are the penny loafers with scrunch detailing, one dark and one cream, and both are what I would wear with straight jeans and a white shirt. The Grand in black is the chunky one, so I would give it a wide trouser. The Luxury in chocolate has a sleek panel upper and the Gloria in tan is a soft slip-on with an elastic back, which makes it the easiest to pull on at the door. For a sharper line, the Cherish in black hi shine has a 4.5cm heel. Before you buy, walk the length of the room and check that your heel does not lift.

Suede asks a different question than leather: where are you going to be standing. Wet pavement is not its friend, so I save these for dry days, offices and dinners, and I would treat a pair with protector spray before the first outing.

The Zac penny loafer comes in taupe and in espresso, both with open stitching, and they are my pick for cropped trousers and bare ankles. The Gatsby in taupe adds scrunch detailing, which suits a pleated skirt. The Glacier in espresso is a backless mule loafer, so it is the one for weekends and a long coat. The Gigi in vino is deep red and looks great with navy or gray, while the Gezza in black is minimal and has a low stacked heel that I would wear all day.

The Gloria in stone has a shearling lining, so it is the winter pair with wool socks and a straight denim hem. The Vixen in olive nubuck has silver hardware and goes with cream knitwear. In the fitting room, brush the suede with your hand: the nap should lie evenly, and the color should not rub off on your palm.

What I would skip: pale suede for a rainy commute, however nice it looks in the box.

Comparing is how you learn what you actually like, so this set is a lineup of other loafers with a few clear personalities. Put them next to the Tony Bianco pairs in your head and notice what you reach for.

The Sam Edelman Loraine has gold bit hardware across the vamp on brown suede, which is the classic horsebit idea. The Stuart Weitzman Lottie in navy suede has a moc toe and a low stacked heel and is the quiet, tailored one. The Veronica Beard Paley in brown suede reworks the penny keeper into a streamlined strap with a gold button. If you want the traditional penny shape, those two are your answer.

The lug soles are the chunky end. The Coach Leah in black patent has a logo strap and a platform, and the Tory Burch Classic Lug in black is glossy with a similar stance. I would wear either with white socks and a short hem. The rag & bone Lexi in plum patent has a ruched vamp, a nice break from black.

Then the flats: the Black Suede Studio Classic Loafer Flat is crinkled leather and low profile, and the Birdies Starling 20 has a suede panel and a small gold logo. Check the sole thickness and the weight in your hand, since a lug sole feels heavy by midday.

I would start with the shape. Decide between a penny loafer, a chunky sole or a flat slip-on, and the color follows. Black and chocolate go with the most things, so they are a safe first pair.

Then I would try on two sizes and walk around, because loafers should hug the heel without slipping. The old Norwegian fishing shoe was built for moving around, and a good pair still should be.

If you wear them often, give them a rest day between wears. They last longer and so does the story. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Loafers for Women and Prada Loafers Dupe.