Vagabond Shoemakers Boots: Finding the Right Pair

I trust shoe brands that grew up around actual shoemakers, and Vagabond is one of them. It began in Sweden in 1973 as a men's shoe label, and Marie Nilsson Peterzén and Mats Nilsson later took over the family business and built the version we know now. In the 1980s they spent time learning the craft near artisans in Portugal and Italy, then expanded into women's footwear after moving back to Sweden in 1993.

Today the design studio is in Varberg, and each collection starts from everyday style, durable quality and refined detail instead of a loose seasonal mood (a relief, honestly). Vagabond's own story frames it as four Cs: Craft, Choice, Care and Change, with an emphasis on making shoes last.

At the end of 2023 the founders handed the company to the Vagabond Shoemakers Foundation, with surpluses going to research, education and charitable projects. That makes sense to me, since longevity shapes both the shoes and the company. In the boots and loafers I see a Swedish point of view: clean lines, small considered details and shoes with a job to do.

These shoes are the brand in its clearest form. The Kelsey Chelsea Boot and Kenova Chelsea Boot bring the familiar Chelsea shape, the Hedda Ankle Boot is the lower option, and the Kenova Loafer is the flatter choice for a straight trouser. The Freya Boot gives a skirt something grounded to stand next to. Picture her walking from a morning meeting to dinner in the Giselle Boot, with a coat hem that leaves the shoe visible.

My tip is to choose by the hems and trouser breaks you already wear. What I would skip: a second pair of near-identical black boots, unless the shape changes what you can pair them with. I went deeper on a related idea in Abrand Jeans: Finding a Pair That Fits.

I like that Vagabond's history is not a straight line from trend to trend. It started with men's shoes, grew into women's footwear and kept its design studio close to the work of making them. The Varberg base and the foundation ownership give the brand a point of view I can understand: shoes should look considered, work with real clothes and be worn for a long time. So start with the pair you will reach for on an ordinary Tuesday. Although I suspect that pair ends up being a loafer. If you want to keep going, Banbe Sunglasses: How to Choose the Right Pair is the one I would read next.