Valentino purple melancholia is a 2026 launch, announced with a party during London Fashion Week on 19 February, hosted with fragrance ambassador Colman Domingo, according to Cosmetics Business. It is the newest color in the Born in Roma family, which began in 2019 with a bottle built around the Valentino Rockstud. Valentino describes it as a new hue in the Born in Roma wardrobe, and says the mood is a moment of deep and positive introspection, a nostalgic embrace of the experiences that shaped you.

That is a lot of feeling for a perfume, but the notes are easy to read. The Donna is a plum accord opening into an osmanthus heart on warm Madagascar vanilla, as Valentino puts it. The Uomo is different. The brand page lists cardamom, lavandin and a creamy coco accord, and the product listing here says lavender.

I like that the line comes as a pair. The Donna is the cozy, jammy one, and the Uomo is the aromatic one, so people can swap bottles without arguing about it.

The first grid is Valentino, from Purple Melancholia to the flankers and two hair and body mists. The second grid is vanilla, gourmand and warm floral perfumes from other houses. My tip: spray the Donna on your wrists and the back of your neck, where body heat brings out the vanilla slowly.

Valentino Donna Born In Roma Purple Melancholia Eau de Parfum is the star, with mirabelle plum, jasmine absolute and Madagascar vanilla, a warm floral with soft osmanthus. Uomo Born in Roma Purple Melancholia Eau de Toilette is cardamom and lavender with creamy coconut, plus sparkling bergamot. It is the one for people who find vanilla too sweet, and the brand says its bergamot and lavender sparkle over an ambery, woody base.

Donna Born in Roma Extradose Parfum is the sweet, boozy one, with juicy blackcurrant, a rum accord and extra vanilla. Donna Born in Roma Coral Fantasy Eau de Parfum is lighter, a fruity floral of orange, jasmine and rose, inspired by sunset in Rome. Uomo Born in Roma Green Stravaganza Eau de Toilette is bergamot, coffee and sustainably sourced vetiver, a bright citrus and woods cologne. Uomo Born in Roma Intense Eau de Parfum adds smoked vetiver and lavandin to a vanilla infusion, in a smaller 50 mL bottle.

Born in Roma Vanilla Bliss Limited Edition Hair & Body Mist is a creamy milk accord with Damascena rose and vanilla bourbon. Born in Roma Caramel Crush Limited Edition Hair & Body Mist swaps the milk for a caramel drizzle over the same rose and vanilla. Both are for hair and skin, and neither replaces a full perfume. I would reach for one when I want a light veil of sweetness that I can reapply.

What I would skip: the two mists if you want the plum from Purple Melancholia. They share vanilla and rose, but not the fruit.

If Purple Melancholia's vanilla base is what you like, here is how other houses do it. Burberry Goddess Eau de Parfum is a trio of vanillas, with a woody infusion on top, vanilla caviar in the heart and a lavender-tinged vanilla absolute. Burberry Goddess Eau de Parfum Intense adds a fourth, smoky vanilla wood, with lavender and patchouli. Both are gourmand but a little herbal.

KAYALI Vanilla | 28 is the sweet one, with vanilla orchids, brown sugar, tonka and amber woods. The 7 Virtues Vanilla Woods is a cult favorite with a pear and rose opening into Madagascan vanilla and caramel. PHLUR Vanilla Skin has sugar crystals and cashmere wood, and it sits closer to skin. Summer Fridays Sunlit Vanilla is the dessert one, cool vanilla ice cream with bergamot and caramel.

For something floral, Yves Saint Laurent Libre pairs French lavender with Moroccan orange blossom and a musk accord. KILIAN Paris Love, Don't Be Shy opens with a marshmallow sugar accord and orange blossom, rose and neroli, and it is the sweetest of the floral pair.

What I would skip: KILIAN Paris Love, Don't Be Shy if you dislike sugary perfumes. The marshmallow note is the whole point, and Yves Saint Laurent Libre is drier.

I think Purple Melancholia works best as a cold-weather scent for someone who wants plum and vanilla without a candy note. If the Donna feels too warm, try the Uomo, which brings lavender and coconut and can be worn by anyone. Whichever you pick, give it a full day of wear before you decide, since plum and coconut both change as the afternoon goes on. For a drier vanilla comparison, put Burberry Goddess on your other wrist and see which one still smells good after an hour. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together Valentino Coral Fantasy and the Born in Roma Bottles, From Sunset to Vanilla and Vanilla Crush.