I did not expect a story about doll clothes to win me over, but here we are. Yuhan Wang grew up in Weihai, a port city in northern China, where she and her sister dressed dolls in paper scraps and candy wrappers and acted out period dramas. She spent a decade learning traditional Chinese landscape painting, studied draping and pattern cutting at university in Beijing, then did a BA and an MA in womenswear at Central Saint Martins and joined Marni.

The label began less as a business plan than a lucky invitation. While Wang was waiting on a work visa after graduating, Fashion East founder Lulu Kennedy asked her to show in London, buyers followed, and she founded the brand in 2018. Her own story is about a romantic, rebellious sensibility, with traditional Chinese ideas of femininity meeting Western references.

What draws me in is that the softness feels deliberate. Ruffles, lace and sheer layers can be beautiful and still take up space.

The skirts make Wang's balance of softness and structure easy to see. The Satin Balloon Skirt has a rounded outline, while the Tiered Lace Ruffle Skirt and Lace Ruffle Tiered Skirt build their volume from layers of trim and frill. The Pleated Denim Skirt is the counterpoint I would reach for when an outfit needs a firmer anchor, and the Lace Trim Check Maxi Skirt adds pattern without losing that long, romantic line. The Lace Hem Drawstring Skirt is the relaxed one of the group. I went deeper on a related idea in THE UPSIDE Trousers, Denim and Skirts: The Pieces Worth Buying This Season.

Picture her in the Satin Balloon Skirt with a close knit and simple flat shoes, so the silhouette stays the star. My rule is to pair the fullest skirt with the quietest top, then check where the hem lands with the shoes you actually plan to wear.

Wang's tops feel like small studies in proportion. The Lace Trim Button Blouse and Lace Trim Button Check Top take the button-front shirt somewhere softer, and the Rose Knitted Puff Top rounds off the shoulder. The Bustier Top is more defined, and the Lost Route Tank Top brings the print language into an easy layer. I went deeper on a related idea in PH5 Knit Tops & Dresses: What to Know Before You Buy.

In my fashion dreams she wears the Ruffle Lace Tier Cami Top under an open jacket with straight trousers, fine detail against clean lines, so nothing tips into costume. What I would skip is piling on jewelry. If the lace or ruffles already set the mood, keep the rest of the outfit spare and let the texture do the talking.

The last group brings dresses, shorts and accessories into the same conversation. The Moonlit Waltz Gown, Bow Tied Dress and Puff Sleeve Embroidered Dress all have names that promise romance, and their details let you decide how much volume or ornament you want.

For a smaller dose, the Rose Print Scarf and Shell Button Lace Bolero layer over a simpler base. The Lace Lined Short and Lace Trimmed Herringbone Short make the trim part of the outfit instead of an afterthought, and even the Lace Socks have that slightly unexpected finish. I would choose one focal detail at a time and let the shape do the rest.

Wang makes romance feel curious rather than predictable. The landscape painting and the years across different cities show up as a way of looking, not a costume reference: layers, print and shape keep changing the mood. I would start with the skirt or top that fits a real plan, then add just one more expressive detail. That is where the label feels most personal, in clothes that can be tender without asking the wearer to disappear. Although I suspect the balloon skirt will win.