A Short Love Letter to Lipstick, From Candle Wax to Satin Finish

A Short Love Letter to Lipstick, From Candle Wax to Satin Finish

The first lipstick was made in 1870 by Guerlain, who took the idea from candlemaking, and I still like the ritual of it more than almost any other makeup step. Here are the satin and cream shades I wear most, the mattes for a sharper edge, and the liners and balms that decide how the color sits.

Guerlain, the Parisian house, made the first lipstick in 1870, and the story goes that the idea came from candlemaking. I love that, because it still feels a little like wax and wicks when you twist one up. Metal cylinders followed by 1915, and in 1923 James Bruce Mason Jr. patented the first swivel-up tube in Nashville, Tennessee. Every satin bullet on my desk is descended from that small mechanical trick.

Satin is where I live most days. It is soft enough to feel like something is on your mouth, and it has enough slip that you can put it on in a taxi without a mirror. Tom Ford's Runway lip color is the polished one, a hydrating formula made for twelve hours of wear. Merit's Signature Lip is lightweight and built for people who do not want to think, and Dior's Rouge Dior is the refillable one, which makes the ritual feel a little more permanent. MAC's M·A·Cximal Sleek Satin is full coverage without stiffness, Charlotte Tilbury's K.I.S.S.I.N.G has a satin shine that looks best in daylight, and Pat McGrath Labs' SatinAllure is the one I wear when I want to look like I tried.

Press it on with the bullet, blot once, and then add a second thin layer. That is how the color lasts. I also like to start at the center of the mouth and work outward, so the edges stay soft and the deepest part sits where the lips are fullest.

Collage of satin and matte lip color, liners and balms beside a studio photo of five lip color tubes stacked on their sides, with gold, orange, blue, green, red and lilac caps against a soft gray background.
Satin and cream color, matte formulas, and the liners and balms that go with them.

When I want a flatter, sharper edge

Matte gets a bad reputation for being drying, and some of it earns that. But a good matte gives you an edge that satin never will: a crisp outline, a color that stays where you put it, and no shine to catch the flash in photos. The trick is choosing the ones that are built to be comfortable.

Valentino's Spike Buttery Matte is named for exactly what it feels like, plush with a flat finish, and Charlotte Tilbury's Matte Revolution is hydrating for a matte, which is why I reach for it before a long dinner. MAC's M·A·Cximal Silky Matte is made for a long day of wear, and Tom Ford's Lip Color Matte is made for full-coverage pigment, the one I keep for evenings. Anastasia Beverly Hills makes a velvet formula that comes in both matte and satin, so you can choose your finish by shade rather than by formula. That is handy when you love a color but not the flatness.

Huda Beauty's Liquid Matte Mousse is the odd one out here, a soft-blur lip cream. It gives you a hazy, diffused edge instead of a sharp one, which I find much easier to wear when I do not have a steady hand or a mirror.

Test a matte on the back of your hand first, since that is the closest thing to your mouth you can see without committing. If it drags or catches, add a thin balm underneath and wait a minute before you begin.

Liners and balms behind the color

The color is only half of the picture. What frames it, a liner to hold the shape and a balm to soften the surface, decides whether it looks put together at lunch or a little smudged by noon.

A liner in a shade close to your natural mouth is the most useful of the group. Makeup by Mario's Ultra Suede Sculpting Lip Pencil is a sculpting pencil that makes fuller shapes easy, and Refy's Lip Blur is designed to soften the edge, the one I use for a smudged, lived-in outline. Rare Beauty's Kind Words is a gentle pencil that suits everyday shades, and YSL's Kiss Shaper is the sculpting option for a more defined line.

Then the balms. Topicals' Slick Salve is glossy and soothing, and I tend to put it on an hour before I even open a tube of color. Anastasia Beverly Hills' Kiss Theory is a hydrating balm with a glossy shine, which is nice on its own or over a matte to bring it back to life.

What I would skip: a liner that is much darker than the color inside it, unless you are deliberately after that look, and heavy balm under a matte right before you leave. The two will slide. Wait a few minutes, or blot with a tissue, so the base is soft and not slippery. A pencil kept in a warm room is also easier to use, since a cold one tugs at the skin.

How I put a mouth together

Here is how I build a mouth on a normal morning. Balm first, while I brush my teeth. Then a liner, drawn lightly and blended in with a fingertip. Then the color, pressed on with the bullet and blotted once.

For nights out I switch to a matte, add a second layer and check my teeth in a phone camera. For a day I know will be long, I stick with satin, because I will be reapplying without a mirror and satin forgives that. Keep one shade in your bag and one on your desk, and let the rest live somewhere cool. That is really all it takes to keep the ritual going, and to enjoy it. If a shade feels too bold on the day, tap it in with a finger instead of wiping it off. You get a stain of the same color, softer and more forgiving, and you are out the door in half a minute. Color is meant to be played with, so change your mind as often as you like. If you want to keep browsing, I also put together What A Good Scented Candle Actually Costs and Blue Lipstick, Worn Like a Grown-Up.