A Stylist's Trip to Japan and the Bio Ionic Curling Iron It Led To

A Stylist's Trip to Japan and the Bio Ionic Curling Iron It Led To

A Bio Ionic curling iron traces back to 1997, when stylist Fernando Romero built a brand around mineral technology he first came across in Japan. Here are the irons and the twist-together styler, the other wands I compare them with, and the flexible sprays that hold a curl without stiffness.

Bio Ionic was founded in 1997 by the world-renowned hair stylist Fernando Romero. What I like about the story is that it began with a curiosity rather than a marketing meeting. Romero came up with the brand's NanoIonic Mineral Technology after discovering natural negative ions while traveling in Japan, and he built tools around that idea. It stayed his company for two decades. In an announcement dated September 19, 2017, JD Beauty Group, the parent of WetBrush, acquired Bio Ionic, and Romero said he was passing the baton.

That is the background I keep in my head whenever I pick up a Bio Ionic curling iron. The tools are meant to feel like a stylist made them, with a long barrel, a good clamp and smooth heat, rather than a novelty for the gift shelf.

The grid begins with the 10X Pro Styling Iron in a one inch size, a straight-barrel styler that plenty of people use for curls as well as smoothing. The Long Barrel Curling Iron in 1.5 inches, with Nanolonic MX, is the big-wave option for long hair. The Long Barrel Styler Pro in one inch is the everyday curl, tighter and springier. And the Twist Interchangeable 3-in-1 is the traveler, with barrels that swap out so a single handle does three jobs.

Choose the barrel size by the length of your hair. Shorter hair usually wants an inch or less, while hair past the shoulders can carry the bigger barrel without the curl dropping out by lunchtime.

Collage of curling irons, waving wands and hairsprays beside a photo of a woman with glossy skin and smooth brown hair resting her cheek on her knee, holding a compact of terracotta blush, in pale pink tights.
Bio Ionic irons and wands, six other curling tools, and hairsprays that keep a curl soft.

The wands and irons I hold them against

Every curling iron looks better in a room of its own, so here are the wands and irons I hold Bio Ionic's against. They are not competitors so much as different moods.

T3's SinglePass Curl X has a 1.5 inch extra-long ceramic barrel, so it is the one to compare for soft, big waves. ghd's Thin Wand is only half an inch, which makes it the pick for tight, corkscrew-ish curls and for short layers. Mane's Handle with Curl is another 1.5 inch iron, with a name that tells you the attitude. Drybar's 3-Day Bender has a one inch barrel and a digital display, and a friendly place to start for anyone who says she cannot curl her own hair.

BondiBoost's Wave Wand has three barrels and gives a waved, textured shape with one pass, which is a different look altogether. Curlsmith's Defrizzion Curl Reviving Wand is the odd one out, a wand meant for refreshing curls rather than building them from scratch.

To choose, think about the shape you want to see in the mirror. A big, loose bend needs a wide barrel. A tight ringlet needs a narrow one. A beachy wave prefers a triple barrel. Most people own two, and there is nothing wrong with that. If you are not sure, borrow a friend's before you commit, and notice how long the barrel takes to heat and how the clamp feels in your hand.

Sprays that let a curl move

A curl that is stiff with spray is a curl you will not want to touch. Flexible hold sprays are made to keep a shape while still letting the strands move, and that is what I look for after using any iron.

dae's Sunsetter is a strong-hold flexible spray, the one I reach for when a curl needs real backup. Living Proof's Style Lab Flex is a flexible hairspray, and it is the most all-purpose choice here. Moroccanoil's Luminous Hairspray has a strong finish, which suits a longer night out. Bumble and bumble's Spray de Mode is a flexible-hold classic that layers well. Color Wow's Texas Hold 'Em is the big-hold option, best kept for a windy day or a wedding. Oribe's Superfine Light Hold is the softest of the group, and my pick for fine hair that gives up easily.

Hold the can about a foot from your head and spray in short bursts, then do not touch the curl until it has cooled.

What I would skip: brushing out a curl while it is still warm, and layering strong hold over a curl that has already been sprayed. Warm hair is still setting, and a second coat of spray only weighs it down. Let each curl cool in your hand, drop it, and spray once at the end. Pinning cooled curls flat against your head for a few minutes gives them even more staying power.

Setting a curl and leaving it alone

Here is how I set a curl and then stop fiddling. Dry hair completely, add a light protectant, and curl in sections with the barrel pointed away from your face. Hold each section for a few seconds only, since longer does not mean better, it just means hotter.

Let the curls cool, run your fingers through them gently, and finish with a flexible spray. Wrap the ends last, and leave the final inch out of the barrel if you want a relaxed finish rather than a ringlet. Rotate the direction of the curls between the left and right sides so they open into each other. If your hair breaks, feels brittle or your scalp is sore after heat, give it a rest and ask a stylist for advice.