Belts under $500 are the quickest way I know to change the proportion of an outfit without buying another outfit. The rule is to buy for the clothes you already wear: a slim belt for a trouser loop, a wider one for a dress or coat and a chain or embellished style for the days when the belt is the accessory. I would spend on leather when the belt is meant to work hard, and save on a decorative piece that only needs to make an entrance. The petit moments Saddle Belt at $31 is a low-risk way to test a western line, while the L'Agence Tobar Leather Belt at $495 is the near-ceiling purchase for someone who wants the belt to be the finish. The buckle, holes and length matter more than the headline. Below, the belts I would separate by chain, suede, leather and embellishment, with a few worth the money and a few worth the fun.

petit moments makes the case for treating a belt as a styling decision rather than a purely practical one. The Baltrum Island Belt at $50 is the useful starting point, while the Sleekline Belt at $30 is the quiet option for a trouser loop. The Slim Modern Faux Fur Rodeo Belt at $27 is the playful outlier, and the Phoenix Belt With Disc Studs at $65 brings more detail without becoming expensive. The Laredo Belt at $72 is the stronger western choice. I would choose one of these according to the wardrobe gap, not the price, because a belt only earns its place when it changes an outfit you already wear.

Chains are the shopping list for when the belt should read as jewellery first and fastening second. The B-Low the Belt Cora Chain Belt at $140 is the cleanest starting point, while the 8 Other Reasons Heart Chain Belt at $30 makes the idea easy to try. The Lelet Ny Odette Chain Belt at $268 is the polished splurge, and the Lele Sadoughi Buckle Chain Belt at $225 gives the chain a stronger centre. Keep a chain belt over a simple fabric rather than competing with another busy detail. Check the drop at your waist before buying; too much length can turn the effect from intentional to tangled.

Suede is the shopping list for a softer belt with enough texture to make denim and tailoring feel less predictable. The Free People Cannon Suede Belt at $48 is the accessible choice, while the St. Agni Suede Tie Belt at $119 gives a cleaner, more minimal line. The B-Low the Belt Milla Suede Belt at $93 is the useful middle ground, and the L'Agence Milou Domed Suede Belt at $325 is the considered splurge. Suede needs care, so do not buy it as a substitute for a hard-working everyday belt. Let the surface be the detail and keep the buckle quiet.

Leather is the shopping list for the belt that has to earn repeat wear. The Flattered Barbara Belt in Black Croc Leather at $115 makes texture the point without a huge spend, while the Lovers and Friends Adana Leather Belt at $98 is the sensible everyday option. The L'Agence Marlow Leather Belt at $325 is the polished buy, and the L'Agence Tobar Leather Belt at $495 is the statement investment. Check the size range and the hole placement before deciding, because a beautiful leather belt that sits at the wrong point will never look right. Spend here when the belt is part of your uniform.

Embellished is the shopping list's fun category, for when a belt is meant to be noticed. The Madewell Skinny Studded Belt at $88 is the easiest entry point, while the 8 Other Reasons Studded Brown Suede Belt With Mixed Metal Grommets at $75 brings more texture. The Free People Wtf Preston Stud Belt at $68 is the relaxed choice, and the Casa Clara Cocos Beaded Belt at $36 is the small, cheerful experiment. Keep the rest of the outfit calm so the embellishment has a job. I would check that the studs and beads sit comfortably against the fabric, especially if the belt is going over a dress.

A belt should be tried on with the outfit, not judged alone. The same width can look brilliant over a dress and clumsy through a belt loop, while a chain that feels too much in the hand can look exactly right once it breaks up a simple coat. I would measure the point where you plan to wear it and check the middle hole rather than buying by your usual trouser size. Store leather flat, keep suede away from rain and do not hang a heavy embellished belt from a thin loop. One dependable belt and one expressive one will take you further than a drawer full of almost-right choices. Phoebe