In 1976 Karl Birkenstock introduced the Boston, a clog the brand's own history describes as lightweight and flexible, where many of the wooden clogs of the time were heavy and rigid. It was a minimalist closed-toe shoe for indoors and outdoors, work and leisure, and in the 1970s it was unisex and made of natural materials in a way the mainstream hardly was. Issey Miyake gave it its first catwalk appearance in 1987.

What defines it is short to list. A contoured footbed made of cork, latex, jute and suede, an adjustable strap with a metal buckle, and a rounded, closed-toe shape that has barely changed in fifty years. Plenty of people want that shape in a different color, in a different leather, or with a little more winter in it, which is the whole reason this Birkenstock Boston clog dupe edit exists. Everything here comes from other labels and shares one or more of those details. None of it is the original, and I would not pretend otherwise.

Start with the suede and buckle pairs, because that is the closest read. The Halina in black from Mephisto has the buckled strap and a cork footbed, so it sits nearest the original idea. The Toni from Amie Rafa swaps the instep strap for a slingback in taupe, which I like with cropped wool trousers. Earth's Eileen in gray and Kay in taupe both have whipstitching and a burnished buckle, soft enough for an October skirt and tights. The Celtic & Co. strap clog in rust can be worn forward or back, handy if your foot sits differently by evening.

Before you buy, press the footbed with your thumb. Cork should feel firm and slightly springy, not hollow, and the buckle should move freely without rattling.

Leather changes the mood. Where suede looks soft and a bit rumpled, a leather clog reads sharper and holds its shape through rain, which matters in October. The brand's own history notes that the original arrived as a lightweight answer to heavy wooden clogs, so I would look for leather that still bends at the ball of the foot.

The Pearson from Dansko is black leather with a wide strap and a statement buckle on a wooden sole, and it is the one I would wear with a slim black trouser and a chunky sock. The Sonja in oiled leather has a rocker sole and an open back, an easy errand shoe. Kork-Ease's Para in tan has a cutout and a low wedge, and the Hudson Wedge from Free People is black leather on a wooden wedge sole. Frye's Campus in saddle brings a round toe and stacked heel, a good partner for a corduroy skirt. Sanita's Kristel adds studs, and the Bolinas by The Sak in cognac woven leather is the softest-looking of the group.

Test: bend the shoe at the toe, then look inside at where the upper meets the footbed. A clean, even edge with no glue showing says the construction was done with care.

What I would skip: a leather clog with a stiff, shiny coating, since it creases in lines instead of softening.

Harper's Bazaar quotes Christina Martini of Ancient Greek Sandals on this one: "A shearling-lined clog is the most comfortable of all shoes." She says they are easy to wear with a relaxed fit, and can go barefoot or with socks. The Birkenstock group's own history also lists shearling versions among the Boston's more recent styles, so the idea has a proper pedigree.

The Angela from Söfft is black leather with a buckled strap and genuine shearling trim, and it comes closest to the original shape. UGG's Enwrap in chestnut suede is a slip-on with a plush lining. The Puente from Fleks has a strap and a contoured midsole, the Ella from Kunsten is olive suede on a wood outsole, and L.L.Bean's Wicked Good Slipper has a shearling collar around a cork-wrapped footbed. Parachute's wool clog in blue is the quietest of the lot, a house shoe that can make it to the mailbox.

Test: slide your hand inside. The lining should be dense and springy from the heel to the toe, with no bald patches or thin seams.

What I would skip: a pair with a tight toe box if you plan to wear thick socks, because the lining takes room.

The two-strap sandal is the other half of the story. Birkenstock's Arizona arrived in November 1973, based on a closed model called the Zürich that Karl Birkenstock "opened". It went on to become the brand's bestseller, which tells you why a pair of straps over a footbed is the shape people look for in warm weather and for a tucked-in sock under trousers.

Naot's Miami in beige knit has adjustable straps and a cork footbed, and it is the one I would put with wide-leg jeans on a mild day. Dr. Scholl's has two: the All Time double strap slide in off white and the Win Flex slide in honey with studs. The Suri from Aerothotic has crisscrossed buckle straps in stone, the Gazell from MIA is woven natural, and EOS Footwear's Dedra uses smooth brandy leather. Cole Haan's Oaklynn in tan leather has gold ring hardware and is the dressiest here.

Test: tighten both buckles, stand up, and see whether your heel sits at the back of the footbed. The straps should hold you without pinching.

What I would skip: a flat foam footbed painted to look like cork if you want something that molds.

Platforms are where the clog turns up a notch. They keep the closed toe and the rounded shape, then add height, which suits a trouser that would otherwise drag on the ground, and gives a long skirt a bit more room to swing.

Cordani's Wilkes in fango suede has a slingback strap on a woodgrain platform. Free People's Calli is black leather with studs. Kork-Ease's Tribecca adds an ankle strap and aged studs in tan suede. The Seychelles Come Away With Me is the simplest, a minimalist leather upper over a substantial heel that works well with a straight denim hem. Sorel's Roam N Clog has a lugged sole and a warm lining, which makes it my pick for a wet commute, and Dansko's Branson has brass studs with a statement buckle in mahogany suede. The Torrence from Kelsi Dagger Brooklyn is lined in faux shearling.

Test: walk across a hard floor. A good platform rolls through the step with no clunk, and the sole does not slap the heel.

What I would skip: a platform that is taller than your usual heel, since the weight of a clog shows up in the ankle by mid-afternoon.

Decide the job first. Suede with a buckle for the closest read, leather for rain, shearling for a cold desk, two straps for the days that still feel like September.

Then check three details in this order: the footbed, the strap and the shape of the toe. If those agree, the color and finish are yours to pick.

Then wear them around the house for an evening before they go outside, so the footbed and strap get a fair chance to settle in.

A shoe born in 1976 as a work clog was never about being precious, and a good alternative should not be either.