A black trench coat inherits a wartime coat and a punk joke. Thomas Burberry patented gabardine in 1888 and the Tielocken coat in 1912, and the V&A shows Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren reworking the form in their 1983 Witches collection. Here is how to choose a black trench coat that works in a downpour and a dinner.
Black Trench Coat: Burberry, Westwood and a Century of Rain
From gabardine to the Witches
Thomas Burberry invented weatherproof gabardine in 1879 and patented it in 1888, and in 1912 he patented the Tielocken, a predecessor of the trench with a secure tie and lock fastening. Decades later, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren showed an outsized waterproof-cotton mac in their 1983 Witches collection, which the V&A presents as an example of the trench form entering high fashion. A black trench coat takes the original, practical idea and gives it a darker, sharper mood.
The details that matter
A good trench has a storm flap, a belt, epaulettes and a back vent. These were built for a reason, and they still shape the coat. A double-breasted front closes tight against the weather. A removable belt lets you cinch or leave it open. Check the fabric. Cotton gabardine is the classic, and technical blends are lighter and shed water.
Length and proportion
A mid-calf trench looks dramatic and keeps the legs dry. A knee-length one is more practical. Picture her crossing a wet street in a black trench with the collar up and a leather bag under her arm. Choose shoulder seams that sit on your shoulders, and leave room for a sweater underneath.
Wearing it every season
In spring, wear it open over a dress. In fall, add a scarf and boots. In winter, layer a zip-in lining or a thick knit beneath. A black trench coat works with denim, suiting and eveningwear, which is why it lasts. Hang it on a wide hanger so the shoulders keep their shape.
What I would skip
I would skip a trench with a flimsy lining that clings and a belt that is too thin for the weight of the fabric. If it feels like a raincoat from a gas station, move on.
