Eveningwear is where Esber's tension between structure and fluidity shows most clearly. Jersey is gathered, twisted and ruched along the body, then released into long, liquid skirts. Halter necklines, crystal details and lace give each dress a sensual edge, but the cut stays undone and never too formal. These are the pieces I would reach for when I want to look dressed up without trying too hard.

Away from eveningwear, the label builds from tailoring and then cuts into it. Wide-leg silk trousers and a bandana-tied top keep things relaxed, while skirts in sequins, gathered jersey and an artful print add a little surprise. Sculptural pumps and mini shoulder bags in metallic and raffia finish the look. Together they make dressing up feel easy and a bit undone.

What I admire most about Christopher Esber is the restraint. Nothing feels fussy, yet every piece has one clever detail, whether it is a cutout, a twist of jersey or a sculptural piece of hardware. It is clothing for a woman who loves fashion but is not willing to surrender to it, and that point of view has stayed clear from the very first collection in 2010.