Drew Henry makes his Courrèges debut just weeks into the job, with undone belts, odd hats and chalky pastels. Trousers appear in most looks, and the mood is warmer than the house is used to.
Courrèges Spring 2027: What the Softer Side Could Be
A new hand at Courrèges
Drew Henry is the newest name in the fashion world's creative-director musical chairs, and he comes with a strong résumé from some very respected studios. He moved from London to Paris in May. Just a few weeks later, here was his first show.
He said he finds the brand very warm and not cold at all, and he wanted more eclecticism in it. I think that is a refreshing read of a house that is often called clean and ergonomic. He admitted he struggles with the neatness, and that confession is why I like the collection.
This is not a continuity appointment, and the outerwear is where I felt it first.
Loose layers, undone edges
Henry loves unraveling edges and playful layering of dresses that might be vintage, and tops are where you see it. I picture a sweatshirt or a ribbed ski top thrown over something delicate, and a tank zipped up underneath.
The palette is chalky pastels with pops of lime and Kelly green. It feels light, and a little bit off, which is exactly the point.
More than a third of the looks wear a belt, and a lot of them look undone. I like that the belt is not there to cinch anything. It simply hangs, and it makes everything feel as if someone got dressed in a hurry and got it right.
Pants, hats and bootees
Trousers appear in most looks, including the split-hem pants that Courrèges is known for, so the skirts in this show are the exception. I would wear a miniskirt under a big jacket and let the pants have the spotlight elsewhere.
The accessories are the surprise. About a third of the looks carry a bag, and a handful wear colorful, eccentric hats. Henry found a tomato-red futuristic cloche that had been crushed in a hat box for decades and had only ever appeared in black and white photographs. He had more of them replicated, and said the point that it is so "f-ed up" is what he loves.
There is also a reprise of the Space Age bootees from the 1964 Moon Girl collection, on a handful of looks.
An inkling of his taste
The thing I remember most is how honest this debut is. Henry only had a matter of weeks, and it is far too early to rush to judgment. Still, he gave us an inkling of who he is, and it is a lot warmer than I expected.
His predecessor spent five years making the clean lines of the house modern, and Henry's voice is completely different. I find that exciting.
I would wear the pastels, leave the belt undone and wear the strange hat. I am curious to see what he does next season.
