Designer Espadrilles: From Woven Flats to the Wedges That Made Summer

Castañer opened its first workshop in Bañolas in 1927; its 1970 meeting with Yves Saint Laurent led to the first wedge espadrille, according to the house's chronology. That design history explains the shoe's double register: a practical rope sole with a shape that can hold its own beside tailored clothes.

The designer espadrilles at the flatter end make that contrast easy to wear. Chloé's striped canvas espadrilles bring a graphic stripe; Loewe + Paula's Ibiza's Rio suede and raffia pair adds a softer, mixed-material note; Alaïa's suede-trimmed mesh has a lighter texture. Tory Burch's open-weave embroidered satin style and Missoni's Harlow and Elle trade embroidery and stripes for a stronger pattern story, while Saint Laurent's Cassandre leather pair gives the shape a dark, pared-back line. Tod's leather espadrille loafers, Tory Burch's Ines slip-on, Burberry's checked Mews, Rothy's Mary Jane and Sam Edelman's mesh flat take the idea in several directions. For everyday styling, these shoes sit neatly under a straight jean or a midi skirt, where the woven edge shows without competing with the hem.

The wedge remains the silhouette that gave espadrilles a more dressed-up profile. Height is built from woven cord, while straps and upper shapes keep the shoe from reading as a single uniform idea. Aquazzura's Tati in leather keeps the toe clean and the heel compact; Saint Laurent's Tribute adds a broad woven upper; Brunello Cucinelli's suede pair and Stella McCartney's Gaia translate the rope base into softer and more sculptural forms.

Missoni's Eva and Carmen give the wedge a patterned surface, while Valentino Garavani's Rockstud ankle-strap style introduces a crisp hardware note. Stuart Weitzman's Alyssa and Dolce Vita's Vaya use familiar open-toe proportions. L'Agence's Rosaline and Castañer's Brook, Carina and Chiara turn the same idea into distinct straps and heel shapes, with Loeffler Randall's Gavi adding a raffia finish. For designer espadrilles that feel dressier than a flat, an ankle tie can frame bare skin without demanding a complicated outfit. Match the fastening with a cropped trouser or a hem that clears the strap; a longer skirt works best when its line leaves the wedge visible.

Platforms and mules give the braided sole a sharper profile, and the difference is often in the upper: a slingback, a sculpted vamp or a crystal accent changes the shoe's register. Brunello Cucinelli's embellished leather platform sandal and Stella McCartney's canvas Sneakelyse anchor the category with substantial soles; Loeffler Randall's Channing is raffia-forward, while Gucci's Horsebit-embellished suede mule uses a familiar loafer detail. Jimmy Choo's Leda keeps a flatter platform shape, and Christian Louboutin's Calakala and Roger Vivier's embellished raffia mule push the form toward evening.

For designer espadrilles in this category, judge the side profile as well as the upper: heel height, platform thickness and the distance from toe to sole affect how a look balances. Gianvito Rossi's Maxilla and Jimmy Choo's Aella provide higher wedges; Valentino Garavani's metallic Rockstud and Aquazzura's crystal-trimmed Costiera add decoration; Gianvito Rossi's embellished flip-flop is a relaxed open-toe option. Jimmy Choo's Dree brings a tall wedge, while Burberry's checked Mews mule and Dolce Vita's Akera platform soften the lineup with familiar patterns and straps. Keep a full hem clear of the heel, or let cropped denim show the whole shape.

Fit should decide between a flat, a tie-up wedge and a platform before color does. A flat pairs easily with a cropped trouser; ankle ties need a hem that leaves the fastening clear; a platform can carry a longer dress, but the proportions should feel balanced when walking. Check whether the upper holds the heel securely and whether the rope sole sits comfortably underfoot. The strongest designer espadrilles are the ones that fit the day as well as the outfit, from a morning commute to a late table outdoors.